While we're talking about isolation, be aware that even when using isolated converters, it is easy to defeat the isolation without realizing it.
I briefly had my LinkPRO battery monitor installed to display the voltage of both the propulsion bank and the DC/DC converter output. Seemed like a good idea, until I realized the LinkPRO shared the same negative terminal for both banks.
-Tom
--- In electricboats@yahoogroups.com, "Eric" <ewdysar@...> wrote:
>
> Hi Carter,
>
> I think that it's no different than your boat on ICE, the only change is that all the electrical aspects of your drive should be a single isolated system.
>
> I would consider your solar array as part of the drive, as long as you've got the controlled output going directly to your traction batteries.
>
> Do what was already done with your house DC and AC systems. I believe that only electrical connection between the drive system and the rest of the boat would be an isolated DC-DC converter. Everything else should be seperated.
>
> Fair winds,
> Eric
> Marina del Rey, CA
>
> --- In electricboats@yahoogroups.com, Carter Quillen <twowheelinguy@> wrote:
> >
> > Eric,
> >
> > What about the danger of cathodic corrosion if something goes wrong when you bond your house power to a metal boat. This is a mysterious and scary subject for me with my ferro cement construction. I've heard a lot of horror stories about boats disolving from a partial short to ground.
> >
> > The Arc came with a one to one transformer to isolate the shore power connection and I often worry about creating a situation with either the 48V propulsion sytem or the 12V and 120V house power systems. Not to mention the 5 kW solar canopy which I have gone to great effort to keep isolated from the boat.
> >
> > Carter
> >
>
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