Thursday, July 8, 2010

Re: [Electric Boats] Re: charging troubles solved (Not so much)

 


this guy powers an electric vehicle and switches in and out to draw on the highest charge
 
<snip>
The controller adds or subtracts packs to maintain the required average number of packs in series. The determination of whether to add, subtract, or maintain the current number of packs is done at the rate of 100 times decisions per second.
1. If it is determined that a pack is to be added to the string the controller checks the voltage of all the packs. Which ever pack has the maximum voltage is the one that will be added to the string.
2. If it is determined that a pack is to be subtracted from the string the controller checks the voltage of all the packs. Which ever pack has the minimum voltage is the one that will be removed from the string.
3. Of course if no change in the number of packs is required then keep the status quo.



From: Hans Kloepfer <hanskloepfer@yahoo.com>
To: electricboats@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thu, July 8, 2010 11:23:07 AM
Subject: Re: [Electric Boats] Re: charging troubles solved (Not so much)

 

Keith,

I had the same idea for a simple cheap volt meter. Just a two pole rotary switch with leads going to each battery. I might have another on/ off switch so you don't leave a small draw on the battery which is lighting up the meter. Maybe a momentary push button switch?

What I really want is a little smart box of some sort which measures individual battery voltages and draws the twelve volt house power from the batt with the highest voltage.

Good luck,
Hans.

I

--- On Wed, 7/7/10, aweekdaysailor <aweekdaysailor@ yahoo.com> wrote:

From: aweekdaysailor <aweekdaysailor@ yahoo.com>
Subject: [Electric Boats] Re: charging troubles solved (Not so much)
To: electricboats@ yahoogroups. com
Date: Wednesday, July 7, 2010, 1:41 PM

 

Mark - agree 100% on monitoring. Though you can go low tech and simply do a quick check manually after/during every trip (under laod). I can tell when I have a sick one by the amount, and linearity of "sag" - I keep a close eye on my packs voltage at a 40amp discharge as my baseline. It starts at 49.4, and should be nearly linear down to about 48V (if you plotted AH used vs voltage). If it starts curving before then, I know something's off. (I don't actually plot this - just guestimate the time between 1/10 volt drops) - YMMV

Real-time monitoring while underway would be a great time-saver vs manually troubleshooting, but the fix is the same - removing the offending battery from the string so you can draw the healthy ones down (with 12 batteries I have that option). I can split banks using my old Perko switch so that simplifies the troubleshooting a bit.

I bought the parts for a manual voltmeter - a 6-pole rotary switch combined with a 2-pole toggle (=12 positions) - just haven't sat down to wire it up yet.

-Keith

--- In electricboats@ yahoogroups. com, "acsarfkram" <acsarfkram@. ..> wrote:
>
> I've got a Kipoint and it has been fine for over two years on my first bank, four West Marine (East Penn) group 27 agm's. On my second bank, four group 30 agm's (Universal Battery 121100) one battery went bad. I replaced the bad battery with an exact replacement and the Kipoint had trouble balancing the string. I got a Pro Charging Quad and it balanced the bank.
>
> On a side note I think it is really important to have a monitor that will tell you what each individual battery is doing (like the PakTrakr) so you can catch a problem battery quickly.
>
> Mark
> Santa Cruz
>
> --- In electricboats@ yahoogroups. com, Hans Kloepfer <hanskloepfer@> wrote:
> >
> >
> >
> > For what it is worth. I just found I had a bad battery. I use the 48v kipoint with agm batteries. I never felt very good about this set up. I wish I would have invested in a charger like the promariner with the individual 12v charging modules.
> >
> > With my 134ah 48v bank I had significant power loss after consuming about 40aH. Upon measuring individual batteries I found the number 2 battery in the string to be down to 9.5V whereas the other three batteries in the string were all at about 12.4 to 12.5 volts. This could be a result of the punishing effects of series charging on the weak battery in the string.
> >
> >
> > Hans
> >
> >
> > I
> >
> > --- On Tue, 7/6/10, aweekdaysailor <aweekdaysailor@> wrote:
> >
> > From: aweekdaysailor <aweekdaysailor@>
> > Subject: [Electric Boats] Re: charging troubles solved
> > To: electricboats@ yahoogroups. com
> > Date: Tuesday, July 6, 2010, 12:52 PM
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >  
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > David, I think there is a typo where you meant you adjusted the charger to 63.6V (=2.65/cell) . And to summarize - I think you are saying that the Kipoint is just doing 2 step charging - first 2.45V/cell (59V) and then dropping to float.
> >
> >
> >
> > This is useful information. I was also seeing some early battery failure with the Kipoint - luckily my WalMart strategy continues to pay off (trade in old batteries just before the warranty expires...)
> >
> >
> >
> > Hans also has a Kipoint, but is using AGM batteries if I recall - so maybe he can comment on how that is working out.
> >
> >
> >
> > I have switched back to ProMariner (20amp, distributed to 2 banks X 2). Individually charging the batteries seems a better strategy long-term given how the weak battery will always get punished trying to charge @48V
> >
> >
> >
> > -Keith
> >
> > --- In electricboats@ yahoogroups. com, "davidchristiansen6 0" <dc@> wrote:
> >
> > >
> >
> > > Found the problem why my 48V 120Ah open lead acid pack wasn't charged properly. Open LA semi traction batteries need 2,65V per cell for the last part of the charge. First step constant current up to 2,45V, then next step max 3,5A to the 2,65V, last step float charge at reduced voltage.
> >
> > > So with the KIPOINT 48V20A charger stopping at 59V the batteries were never fully charged, and they sulphated! The KIPOINT charger is not a real automatic 3 point charger. After reaching the 59V it went directly into float mode. After shifting a zener diode (instructed by the factory) the top voltage could be adjusted to 53,6V BUT: depending of the float point adjusting potmeter it then either 1) went on charging with constant 53,6V at about 10Amps!!! without stopping, or 2) went directly into float charge mode.
> >
> > > Analysing the circuitry it turned out the device is more a power supply than an automatic charger. Only regulating IC is an OpAmp. The other 2 IC's are switch mode controllers.
> >
> > > The KIPOINT charger is maybe OK for SLA type batteries, where the voltage may suffice, but I found no real 2. charging step in the device.
> >
> > >
> >
>


__._,_.___
Recent Activity:
MARKETPLACE

Stay on top of your group activity without leaving the page you're on - Get the Yahoo! Toolbar now.


Get great advice about dogs and cats. Visit the Dog & Cat Answers Center.


Get real-time World Cup coverage on the Yahoo! Toolbar. Download now to win a signed team jersey!

.

__,_._,___

No comments:

Post a Comment