Bad idea. You will let the magic smoke out of the 3 dry run bilge pumps and you have way too much room for a faulty bilge pump/open circuit. As bilge pumps should rarely run, direct connect it to a battery.
And you meant “run them in series”. In parallel, they would all see 48v.
Byron
From: electricboats@yahoogroups.com [mailto:electricboats@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Myles Twete
Sent: Sunday, February 13, 2011 2:34 PM
To: electricboats@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [Electric Boats] 48V to 12V
I use an ebay-purchased used GE 36v-12v converter, but as folks have mentioned about continuous drain if the DC/DC converter is in the loop, I never did connect my bilge pump back up to automatic operation since converting to electric…not good, but that’s what’s the status.
Another bilge pump idea: You could avoid the constant drain on the DC/DC by having a dedicated DC/DC for the bilge pump, then rewiring the bilge pump switch to instead switch the input power to the DC/DC when water is detected or you manually switch it on.
Or how about this whacky idea: Why not place four 12v bilge pumps (for 48v), in the bilge at different stations along the length and perhaps width of the boat. You’d want any one of the switches to turn all 4 of them on (assuming it’s okay to dry run them) and so you’d need to parallel all 4 switches up, then have the parallel bank of these switches placed electrically in series with all 4 motors. If any switch detects water, all 4 bilge pumps turn on, running on 48v.
Of course, both of those ideas require disconnecting the switch from the motor…
-MT
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