T-Pain Is On A Boat: RE: [Electric Boats] 48V to 12V

Sunday, February 13, 2011

RE: [Electric Boats] 48V to 12V

There must be a reason why this will not work because it looks simple..
Set up a positive and a negative bus bar..
Run each battery in parallel to the bus bar the same as if you had a 4 bank charger..Should this not give you the full pack but draw the 12 volts from each battery equally??.I have been looking for a reason why this won't work and there are people on here that know a lot more than I do and can probably explain it..
Richard

--- On Sun, 2/13/11, Myles Twete <matwete@comcast.net> wrote:

From: Myles Twete <matwete@comcast.net>
Subject: RE: [Electric Boats] 48V to 12V
To: electricboats@yahoogroups.com
Received: Sunday, February 13, 2011, 2:34 PM

I use an ebay-purchased used GE 36v-12v converter, but as folks have mentioned about continuous drain if the DC/DC converter is in the loop, I never did connect my bilge pump back up to automatic operation since converting to electric…not good, but that's what's the status.

Another bilge pump idea: You could avoid the constant drain on the DC/DC by having a dedicated DC/DC for the bilge pump, then rewiring the bilge pump switch to instead switch the input power to the DC/DC when water is detected or you manually switch it on.

Or how about this whacky idea: Why not place four 12v bilge pumps (for 48v), in the bilge at different stations along the length and perhaps width of the boat. You'd want any one of the switches to turn all 4 of them on (assuming it's okay to dry run them) and so you'd need to parallel all 4 switches up, then have the parallel bank of these switches placed electrically in series with all 4 motors. If any switch detects water, all 4 bilge pumps turn on, running on 48v.

Of course, both of those ideas require disconnecting the switch from the motor…

-MT