Monday, September 30, 2024

Re: [electricboats] Cells (modules) are dying.

On Mon, Sep 30, 2024 at 06:17 PM, shredderf16 wrote:

The top balance works. About 3.6v in parallel with small DC power supply. Might take a week to 10 days.

I use this current-controlled power supply to speed up top balances (over 100 amps at 3.65V (voltage adjustable)):
 
 
Look for the charge current to stabilize at a tiny fraction of the total amp-hours you have in parallel.
Example: for my 10kWh, 48V-nominal pack, putting all sixteen cells in parallel comes to 3200Ah.
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Re: [electricboats] Cells (modules) are dying.

Peter,
Look at the charge/discharge chart for your batteries. There should be one. In addition to Will Prowse look up the Current Connected SOK rack battery manual. Very good discussion about charging, conclusion is to fully charge the bank every time.  You do need to top balance the bank. Our group of 3 guys have run solar off grid house banks exactly the same as yours for 4 years. Our biggest problem was BMS. Current favorite is Jackery, I personally made 3 Ant Bms from circuit boards from Taiwan. You can go without one if you top balance periodically with Lifepo4. All of us had cell failures like you did because of bad bms or because we manually over rid it. I recently went to server rack style because it's easier.

The top balance works. About 3.6v in parallel with small DC power supply. Might take a week to 10 days. Most exciting part is all that metal around exposed terminals. You drop a wrench once and you'll find out. Ditch the screws, get SS studs.
Jerry



On September 30, 2024, at 7:07 PM, bobkart <couch45@msn.com> wrote:


3.65V is 'full' for LFP cells.  By bringing all your cells to that voltage (usually in parallel), you're more sure they are at the same energy level (assuming capacity-balanced cells).  This approach is referred to as 'top-balancing'.
 
The problem with 3.2V is that's on the very flat part of the charge/discharge curve for LFP chemistry.  You could be at 20% SOC or 40% SOC, depending on very small voltage differences that would all read as 3.2V on a not-very-precise-or-accurate meter.
 
There is also an approach called bottom-balancing, which I've never used, that tries to achieve the same result by starting at 0% SOC (or some other very low number).  I don't like bringing cells down that low (it can be hard on them), and it's not as well-defined of a voltage (2.5V, 2.75V, ...?).  100% SOC is easy to know you're at, based on the cells not accepting further charge beyond just a trickle (C/100 say).
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Re: [electricboats] Cells (modules) are dying.

3.65V is 'full' for LFP cells.  By bringing all your cells to that voltage (usually in parallel), you're more sure they are at the same energy level (assuming capacity-balanced cells).  This approach is referred to as 'top-balancing'.
 
The problem with 3.2V is that's on the very flat part of the charge/discharge curve for LFP chemistry.  You could be at 20% SOC or 40% SOC, depending on very small voltage differences that would all read as 3.2V on a not-very-precise-or-accurate meter.
 
There is also an approach called bottom-balancing, which I've never used, that tries to achieve the same result by starting at 0% SOC (or some other very low number).  I don't like bringing cells down that low (it can be hard on them), and it's not as well-defined of a voltage (2.5V, 2.75V, ...?).  100% SOC is easy to know you're at, based on the cells not accepting further charge beyond just a trickle (C/100 say).
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Re: [electricboats] Cells (modules) are dying.

Thanks for all your suggestions and comments. I am following through with them all. However, I do have one fine question before I begin the balance. The specs on the Eve 280ah cells says nominal voltage 3.2v. However, I have seen others, Will Prowse among them and he seems like a reputable person, balance theirs at 3.6. Since I’ve never seen any of my batteries register more than 3.30 and ALL of them from the day I got them in the 3.28 to 3.29 range I am reluctant to put the current for balancing up to 3.6. I cannot find any other specs for these batteries other that that nominal 3.2v. Should I just balance at 3.2 or should I go higher? Since I screwed them up the first time I am being very cautious and before I plug anything in or hook anything on I’m making sure to know just what I need to do and what settings need to be to do a successful balance. Thanks so much.
 
peter
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Thursday, September 26, 2024

Re: [electricboats] Cells (modules) are dying.

Mark,
Agree very important to have bus bars and connections tight and clean. These Chinese cells have alu tapped terminals with iffy screws. I put SS studs in mine. Be very careful installing them, you can over torque them and break into battery cell easily. Bit once they are in a lot easier to change stuff later.
 
I hit a committent point on my 12 foot cat dinghy last month. Gas or electric. I was making motor mount. Motor mount done for 8 hp gas yamaha. In my opinion, motors not there yet. Batteries are there or very close.

The submersible motors always leak or corrode. I think everything electric needs to live a very sheltered life. I've got ideas, but waiting for someone else to do it.

I do believe one day this will be way to go, but not now.

Jerry



On September 26, 2024, at 12:47 PM, Mark Stafford <mstafford@natca.net> wrote:


Peter,
Another possible failure point (there are many different types of failure points): each battery connection. Make sure each connection to each post of each battery has the same high amperage surface contact area, the same cleanliness, the same torque value on the nuts or bolts, the same operating temperature, the same washers, the same lug count, etc. The basic concept is that you are trying to drain and charge each battery identically. If one of the posts has a higher resistance to electricity flow (dirty, loose, wavy washer, different size washer, wavy lug, worse crimping of the battery cable to the lug...) that post will run hot, which changes the internal resistance of the battery, which further exacerbates the imbalance, which further drains that battery, which can quickly and permanently change the internal chemistry of the battery.
Most of the time, these slight imbalances amount to a hill of dry beans (dry beans self-level pretty well). But if you cook the beans, the hill of beans can be significant.
The BMS was telling you to stop, in a language that assumed you were an electrical engineer with deep knowledge of LiFePO4 battery chemistry. Sometimes safety requires us to kill the batteries to save the boat, so the nice thing about your BMS is that it let you kill some batteries to save yourselves.
One really helpful simple tool is a $30 temperature gun. A more expensive but automated option is to install calibrated temperature probes on each battery terminal, and feeding that information to a BMS that would alert you to temperature imbalances.
One gallon of diesel compares to roughly 40 kWh of energy. You have roughly 4 kWh in your fully charged healthy 16 battery pack (4,480 under perfect conditions, which they never are). But your e-propulsion is ideally about 5 times more efficient than diesel. This means your 4 kWh pack, times 5 for efficiency, equals 20 kWh diesel power equivalent. So going out with your (16) 280Ahr batteries fully charged is like leaving the dock with 1/2 gallon of diesel fuel. You could go really slow (~1 knot) for ~10 hours, or really fast for ~10 minutes, but then the batteries need charging. Your 2200EU generator allows you to travel at ~1 knot continuously if the generator is running continuously. These are very approximate water speed estimates, not GPS speeds, and are influenced by literally hundreds of variables about your sailboat, the sea state, the weather, people moving around on your boat, etc.
This is the ballpark you are playing in. It is not an argument for or against e-propulsion, just the current state of electricity storage and creation.
My arguments for e-propulsion are:
low operating cost
low maintenance
low stink
low sound
low space requirements
low emissions
high reliability
high precision of thrust
high thrust available
high longevity
high tech
high investment in a better tomorrow
The hard part: e-propulsion often comes with a high learning curve. Many of our ancestors died during the learning curve of gasoline, but they gifted us cultural wisdom about the dangers of gasoline. We are gifting our progeny with the cultural wisdom of clean energy use. Don't kill yourself in the process: each battery can be lethal.
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Re: [electricboats] Cells (modules) are dying.

Peter,
Another possible failure point (there are many different types of failure points): each battery connection. Make sure each connection to each post of each battery has the same high amperage surface contact area, the same cleanliness, the same torque value on the nuts or bolts, the same operating temperature, the same washers, the same lug count, etc. The basic concept is that you are trying to drain and charge each battery identically. If one of the posts has a higher resistance to electricity flow (dirty, loose, wavy washer, different size washer, wavy lug, worse crimping of the battery cable to the lug...) that post will run hot, which changes the internal resistance of the battery, which further exacerbates the imbalance, which further drains that battery, which can quickly and permanently change the internal chemistry of the battery.
Most of the time, these slight imbalances amount to a hill of dry beans (dry beans self-level pretty well). But if you cook the beans, the hill of beans can be significant.
The BMS was telling you to stop, in a language that assumed you were an electrical engineer with deep knowledge of LiFePO4 battery chemistry. Sometimes safety requires us to kill the batteries to save the boat, so the nice thing about your BMS is that it let you kill some batteries to save yourselves.
One really helpful simple tool is a $30 temperature gun. A more expensive but automated option is to install calibrated temperature probes on each battery terminal, and feeding that information to a BMS that would alert you to temperature imbalances.
One gallon of diesel compares to roughly 40 kWh of energy. You have roughly 4 kWh in your fully charged healthy 16 battery pack (4,480 under perfect conditions, which they never are). But your e-propulsion is ideally about 5 times more efficient than diesel. This means your 4 kWh pack, times 5 for efficiency, equals 20 kWh diesel power equivalent. So going out with your (16) 280Ahr batteries fully charged is like leaving the dock with 1/2 gallon of diesel fuel. You could go really slow (~1 knot) for ~10 hours, or really fast for ~10 minutes, but then the batteries need charging. Your 2200EU generator allows you to travel at ~1 knot continuously if the generator is running continuously. These are very approximate water speed estimates, not GPS speeds, and are influenced by literally hundreds of variables about your sailboat, the sea state, the weather, people moving around on your boat, etc.
This is the ballpark you are playing in. It is not an argument for or against e-propulsion, just the current state of electricity storage and creation.
My arguments for e-propulsion are:
low operating cost
low maintenance
low stink
low sound
low space requirements
low emissions
high reliability
high precision of thrust
high thrust available
high longevity
high tech
high investment in a better tomorrow
The hard part: e-propulsion often comes with a high learning curve. Many of our ancestors died during the learning curve of gasoline, but they gifted us cultural wisdom about the dangers of gasoline. We are gifting our progeny with the cultural wisdom of clean energy use. Don't kill yourself in the process: each battery can be lethal.
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Wednesday, September 25, 2024

Re: [electricboats] Cells (modules) are dying.

Here's the one I have. I have 2 in different locations. Works well. Couldn't find share link, so paste in Amazon.
DC Power Supply Variable,0-30 V / 0-10 A LW-K3010D Adjustable Switching Regulated Power Supply Digital,with Alligator Leads US Power Cord Used for Spectrophotometer and lab Equipment Repair



On September 25, 2024, at 7:06 PM, Peter Knowlton <pqknowlton@gmail.com> wrote:


Thanks Jerry, Gives me hope. I just might try that. I have a couple that are below 2, as well. First it was the #6 module, then #5 went, and #12 went about the same time as #5. Do you have the link for that DC power supply you got?
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