Tuesday, May 31, 2022

Re: [electricboats] Another LifePo4 build question

I've been getting BMS experience now for several years with my pack (20P(12S(2P)): 30kwh @ nom. 42v.  As noted by canoesailor, a vehicle typically uses one battery management "system" (BMS).  Mine needs to manage 20 strings with 12 series pairs of Enerdel cells.  Each of those strings has its own remote lithium energy controller (RLEC).  On a THINK electric car, a master (MLEC) communicates with and controls 16 RLECs via a CAN bus.  As designed, only 16 RLEC addresses can be CAN mapped, so for my boat with 20 RLECs, I use 2 CAN buses and an Arduino DUO microcontroller board with dual CAN port interface.  The BMS SW I wrote.  And that has been a learning experience.  For the longest time I thought it best to simply identify the lowest cell pair out of 240, set a threshold just above that and bypass all the cells in the pack to balance.  What I didn't realize though was that these remote sense boards don't all scale the same.  And so, even with all the cells across the pack balanced, there could be 20mv difference in reported value between one string and another even though the strings are in parallel!

Then it hit me: The right thing to do (since these 20 strings are all paralleled) is to balance each string by itself relative to its own minimum cell.  Better still (ignoring energy lost to power the BMS system), balance just 1 string at a time and let the paralleled strings feed the balancing one as it's balancing.  This can be a biggee.  Imagine having just 1 of 240 cell pairs in the pack that is low, say 50mv low.  A simple BMS that tells all cell pairs to dump power until reaching, say, Vcellmin + 5mv would dump power in 239 cell pairs with the entire pack dropping voltage simultaneously for no reason---and not settling until losing something like 50-60mv of pack voltage.  If instead just the 1 string with the widest span between lowest and highest cell voltage bypasses its cells first, the rest of the pack will still drop, but just slightly, and only to feed the bypass current of the string bypassing.  In so doing, that lowest cell will instead RISE in voltage.  Do this for each of the strings and voila!  Balanced strings but without going to the lowest cell voltage simultaneously.  This reduces greatly the stress on the power electronics and reduces risk.  Though it is much slower.

 

Anyway, I'm not done experimenting.  I do not power up my BMS except once every few months to check status and balance cells.  That's about 1 balancing per 3 or 4 charge cycles.  Realize that powering a BMS consumes power.  In my case, I have 20 RLECs which consume about 1watt each (plus any bypass power), an Arduino DUO and CAN driver (5watts?) and if powered from my pack, a 48v-12v DCDC block, which is not very efficient at these low power levels (another 7w).  This amounts to 4w (cell bypass, 11 cells) + 18w (20 RLEC) + 5w (master) + 7w (DCDC) = 34watts.  While this might not sound like much, in 1 day this is 0.8kwh and in 1 week, about 6kwh, or about 20% of my pack capacity.  So the only way I'd consider powering this BMS full time would be via shore power.  But why?  No reason to.  Best to keep it disconnected unless needed.

 

Finally, unless your BMS controller is communicating with your charger and motor controller, the BMS will not actively protect you from over-charging  or over-discharging a cell except to the extent that you pre-balanced the cells and you only typically have 100-150ma (250ma w/Batrium?) of bypass current available, which may not be fast enough to prevent the condition.  If communication with the controller and charger is happening, the BMS can halt or reduce charging or in discharge, reduce the available power for propulsion.

 

Anyway, there are a lot of options when one looks at the nitty gritty of how best to approach cell balancing.  The simplest might be to have independent remote BMS cards that manage each parallel string (like mine).  It could be done simply as "top-balancing" (i.e. at the end of full charging --- the default for my RLECs) or by active balancing at whatever voltage the pack is at (what my BMS does) or bottom balancing (who does that?), or all of the above?

 

-Myles

 

From: electricboats@groups.io [mailto:electricboats@groups.io] On Behalf Of cpcanoesailor via groups.io
Sent: Tuesday, May 31, 2022 7:18 AM
To: electricboats@groups.io
Subject: Re: [electricboats] Another LifePo4 build question

 

I think you will only need one BMS, since you have only one battery. A BMS is a battery management system, protecting the cells from over-voltage, under-voltage, and over current situations, whether they are caused by charging or a load. It may or may not also do balancing between the cells. You will probably need some sort of controller for each of your chargers. The shore power charger should have one built in. You will need at least one for your solar panels, but I would suggest one for each panel to get the best output in partial shading. You will probably also want a controller for the diesel generator DC output.

Re: [electricboats] Another LifePo4 build question

I've been getting BMS experience now for several years with my pack (20P(12S(2P)): 30kwh @ nom. 42v.  As noted by canoesailor, a vehicle typically uses one battery management "system" (BMS).  Mine needs to manage 20 strings with 12 series pairs of Enerdel cells.  Each of those strings has its own remote lithium energy controller (RLEC).  On a THINK electric car, a master (MLEC) communicates with and controls 16 RLECs via a CAN bus.  As designed, only 16 RLEC addresses can be CAN mapped, so for my boat with 20 RLECs, I use 2 CAN buses and an Arduino DUO microcontroller board with dual CAN port interface.  The BMS SW I wrote.  And that has been a learning experience.  For the longest time I thought it best to simply identify the lowest cell pair out of 240, set a threshold just above that and bypass all the cells in the pack to balance.  What I didn't realize though was that these remote sense boards don't all scale the same.  And so, even with all the cells across the pack balanced, there could be 20mv difference in reported value between one string and another even though the strings are in parallel!

Then it hit me: The right thing to do (since these 20 strings are all paralleled) is to balance each string by itself relative to its own minimum cell.  Better still (ignoring energy lost to power the BMS system), balance just 1 string at a time and let the paralleled strings feed the balancing one as it's balancing.  This can be a biggee.  Imagine having just 1 of 240 cell pairs in the pack that is low, say 50mv low.  A simple BMS that tells all cell pairs to dump power until reaching, say, Vcellmin + 5mv would dump power in 239 cell pairs with the entire pack dropping voltage simultaneously for no reason---and not settling until losing something like 50-60mv of pack voltage.  If instead just the 1 string with the widest span between lowest and highest cell voltage bypasses its cells first, the rest of the pack will still drop, but just slightly, and only to feed the bypass current of the string bypassing.  In so doing, that lowest cell will instead RISE in voltage.  Do this for each of the strings and voila!  Balanced strings but without going to the lowest cell voltage simultaneously.  This reduces greatly the stress on the power electronics and reduces risk.  Though it is much slower.

 

Anyway, I'm not done experimenting.  I do not power up my BMS except once every few months to check status and balance cells.  That's about 1 balancing per 3 or 4 charge cycles.  Realize that powering a BMS consumes power.  In my case, I have 20 RLECs which consume about 1watt each (plus any bypass power), an Arduino DUO and CAN driver (5watts?) and if powered from my pack, a 48v-12v DCDC block, which is not very efficient at these low power levels (another 7w).  This amounts to 4w (cell bypass, 11 cells) + 18w (20 RLEC) + 5w (master) + 7w (DCDC) = 34watts.  While this might not sound like much, in 1 day this is 0.8kwh and in 1 week, about 6kwh, or about 20% of my pack capacity.  So the only way I'd consider powering this BMS full time would be via shore power.  But why?  No reason to.  Best to keep it disconnected unless needed.

 

Finally, unless your BMS controller is communicating with your charger and motor controller, the BMS will not actively protect you from over-charging  or over-discharging a cell except to the extent that you pre-balanced the cells and you only typically have 100-150ma (250ma w/Batrium?) of bypass current available, which may not be fast enough to prevent the condition.  If communication with the controller and charger is happening, the BMS can halt or reduce charging or in discharge, reduce the available power for propulsion.

 

Anyway, there are a lot of options when one looks at the nitty gritty of how best to approach cell balancing.  The simplest might be to have independent remote BMS cards that manage each parallel string (like mine).  It could be done simply as "top-balancing" (i.e. at the end of full charging --- the default for my RLECs) or by active balancing at whatever voltage the pack is at (what my BMS does) or bottom balancing (who does that?), or all of the above?

 

-Myles

 

From: electricboats@groups.io [mailto:electricboats@groups.io] On Behalf Of cpcanoesailor via groups.io
Sent: Tuesday, May 31, 2022 7:18 AM
To: electricboats@groups.io
Subject: Re: [electricboats] Another LifePo4 build question

 

I think you will only need one BMS, since you have only one battery. A BMS is a battery management system, protecting the cells from over-voltage, under-voltage, and over current situations, whether they are caused by charging or a load. It may or may not also do balancing between the cells. You will probably need some sort of controller for each of your chargers. The shore power charger should have one built in. You will need at least one for your solar panels, but I would suggest one for each panel to get the best output in partial shading. You will probably also want a controller for the diesel generator DC output.

Re: [electricboats] Another LifePo4 build question

I think you will only need one BMS, since you have only one battery. A BMS is a battery management system, protecting the cells from over-voltage, under-voltage, and over current situations, whether they are caused by charging or a load. It may or may not also do balancing between the cells. You will probably need some sort of controller for each of your chargers. The shore power charger should have one built in. You will need at least one for your solar panels, but I would suggest one for each panel to get the best output in partial shading. You will probably also want a controller for the diesel generator DC output.
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Sunday, May 29, 2022

Re: [electricboats] Generator to recharge battery bank

The charger appears to be a weak link, ~56V at 15A is only ~800W.  You'd need around five hours at that rate to go from 50% to 100% SOC on your VRLA battery bank.  The generator is fine though, and could probably run two of those chargers.  Not that they would cooperate in parallel.

If/when you move to an LFP battery bank, a much-less-involved piece of electronics will suffice for charging.  For my 10kWh LFP bank, I use a MeanWell RSP-1000-48, which can deliver ~56V at 21A (nearly 1,200W), with an important feature that they can be paralleled easily, as they're just adjustable-voltage current-limited AC-to-DC power supplies.  Two of those is probably too much for your generator, but even one would bring that five-hour time down closer to three hours.  And they make a '750' version that would probably allow paralleling with your generator.
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Re: [electricboats] Generator to recharge battery bank

Hi Ryan

Ok, handy points on the generator fumes - plan to have that up on the deck well clear of the cabin as a backup only - but yes potential danger there so thanks for pointing that out.
Also cheers to Bobkar for the clear explanation.
Specs for charger below - 15amp at 48volt so would that push in 15 amps per hour?? 80 ( 50%DOD) / 15 = 5.3 hours to charge give or take??
Ideally solar and wind generators will mean I never use the petrol generator. All the old salts at the boatyard keep telling me "you need to motor out of danger..etc.etc...".


Matson 4 in 1 Multi Volt Battery Charger 12, 24, 36, 48V

Description

Absorption YES Analysis / Fault Find YES Battery Type Deep Cycle and automotive VRLA/ AGM/ SLA/ Flooded & Lead Acid Case Construction Aluminium Charge Rate 14.7V, 29.4V, 44.1V, 58.8V Charging Stage 3 Stage Desulphation YES Dimensions 300 x 223 x 101mm Equalisation YES Fan Cooled YES Input Voltage - DC 240VAC IP Rating N/A Min Start Voltage 12V - 8.0 V, 24V - 16.0V, 36V - 27.0V, - 48V - 40.0V Output Current 30/ 25/ 15 Amp Output Voltage 12 / 24/ 36 / 48 Volt DC Permanent Mount YES Recondition YES Size 10 - 400 Ah Soft Start YES Weight 5Kg

The Matson 4 in 1 Multi Volt charger is all you need for all your at home or workshop charging needs. Ideal for your family car battery right through to heavy duty 48 volt systems like golf buggies, forklifts and trucks Simple to use, simply select the required voltage, attach the clamps and the charger will take care of the rest. LED indicators will let you know what is going on during the charging cycles. Full safety protections including overheating, reverse polarity protection and short circuiting. Charges Lead Acid, NiMH, AGM and Sealed batteries.

  • 4 different charge voltage settings
  • 12V - 30 Amps
  • 24V - 30 Amps
  • 36V - 25 Amps
  • 48V - 15 Amps
  • 3 stage fully automatic Switch Mode charging and maintenance capabilities
  • Offers protection against short circuiting, reverse connection and overheating
  • LED display bar indicates what voltage has been selected and percentage charged
  • Charges Lead Acid, NiMH, AGM and Sealed batteries
  • Heavy duty Aluminium housing Charger Output Nominal Output Voltage 12V 24V 36V 48V Max Output A 30A 30A 25A 15A Max Output Power 450W 900W 1000W 900A Charge Voltage 14.7V 29.4V 44.1V 58.8V Float Voltage 13.6V 26.6V 39.9V 53.2V Minimum Start Voltage 8.0V 16.0V 27.0V 40.0V This item is sold by Blue Bar Industries, an offshore business located in Brisbane, Queensland, Australia, and may incur NZ customs duty or tax. Find out more at http://trade.me/whatsmyduty



On Mon, 30 May 2022 at 14:35, Ryan Sweet <ryan@ryansweet.org> wrote:
What what kind of charger do you have?  That will determine whether the generator can fully supply the charger or not.  Most likely, the generator cannot charge your batteries one to one with consumption, so a model might be run the motor for an hour, it takes two hours to charge via generator or something like that. But really it's all speculation without knowing what kind of charger you are using.  With a portable generator on the water you do need to be really careful with exhaust. There is a reason marine generators typically mix the exhaust with water: it is really easy for the wind on the water to send the exhaust back into your cabin or whatever area your people are congregating in and give everyone carbon monoxide poisoning.  So when using portable generators on a sailboat just make sure that you're paying attention to the wind etc. the same way you do when sailing. 

On May 29, 2022, at 16:29, bobkart <couch45@msn.com> wrote:

You have ~7.7kWh total capacity in those VRLA batteries.  Considerably less 'net' capacity, when considering lead-acid DOD limits.

Around 3.5 hours of your 2.2kW generator will generate that much energy.  Of course the charger won't be 100% efficient from AC to DC, then lead-acid batteries are not very efficient input-to-output.  So call it four hours, then roughly halve that to keep within a 50% DOD limit.

So yeah, that generator is plenty for that size battery bank.  In the ballpark of two hours should be enough to get from 50% to 100% SOC.



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Re: [electricboats] Generator to recharge battery bank

What what kind of charger do you have?  That will determine whether the generator can fully supply the charger or not.  Most likely, the generator cannot charge your batteries one to one with consumption, so a model might be run the motor for an hour, it takes two hours to charge via generator or something like that. But really it's all speculation without knowing what kind of charger you are using.  With a portable generator on the water you do need to be really careful with exhaust. There is a reason marine generators typically mix the exhaust with water: it is really easy for the wind on the water to send the exhaust back into your cabin or whatever area your people are congregating in and give everyone carbon monoxide poisoning.  So when using portable generators on a sailboat just make sure that you're paying attention to the wind etc. the same way you do when sailing. 

On May 29, 2022, at 16:29, bobkart <couch45@msn.com> wrote:

You have ~7.7kWh total capacity in those VRLA batteries.  Considerably less 'net' capacity, when considering lead-acid DOD limits.

Around 3.5 hours of your 2.2kW generator will generate that much energy.  Of course the charger won't be 100% efficient from AC to DC, then lead-acid batteries are not very efficient input-to-output.  So call it four hours, then roughly halve that to keep within a 50% DOD limit.

So yeah, that generator is plenty for that size battery bank.  In the ballpark of two hours should be enough to get from 50% to 100% SOC.

Re: [electricboats] Generator to recharge battery bank

You have ~7.7kWh total capacity in those VRLA batteries.  Considerably less 'net' capacity, when considering lead-acid DOD limits.

Around 3.5 hours of your 2.2kW generator will generate that much energy.  Of course the charger won't be 100% efficient from AC to DC, then lead-acid batteries are not very efficient input-to-output.  So call it four hours, then roughly halve that to keep within a 50% DOD limit.

So yeah, that generator is plenty for that size battery bank.  In the ballpark of two hours should be enough to get from 50% to 100% SOC.
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