Friday, February 16, 2018

Re: [Electric Boats] Re: Shaft Slip Joint Idea

 



--
Jason Taylor
v:514-815-8204dont knownif it's applicable to your situation, but when I went to a stainless shaft, I had to put on an anode. My old setup was bronze shaft with bronze prop and bronze cutless bearing, and directly coupled to yanmar engine — zero corrosion in 35 years, without a sacrificial anode. The new setup is as above but with a stainless shaft and a rubber shaft-saver between the transmission and the shaft. So the shaft/prop is isolated. And dissimilar metals in an electrolyte will make a battery. And it's the bronze that will serve as the anode, unless something else (zinc in saltwater or magnesium in fresh) is connected to the shaft. I replace it every year and a good deal of it is eaten away at haul out. After 4 seasons, the bronze prop is still perfect. 



On Feb 15, 2018, at 17:21, king_of_neworleans <no_reply@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

 

Well, I finished the new motor and thrust bearing mount. Preliminary rough alignment gives me about the same performance figures as the old setup with the 2:1 gearbox. I say about, because I ran the motor with the boat tied down to the dock. Too windy for a good test run... the data would be all over the place, and previous testing was done in calm conditions so it would be apples and oranges. RPM/watt slightly lower, of course, tied down, but it looks about right. I was hoping to see the kind of improvement I saw before, with the rough and ready thrust bearing assembly bolted to the motor, but no cigar. Next week I will be replacing the beat up bent up old bronze shaft with a nice new SS one and replacing the cutless bearing, also switching from the 14x10 prop to its twin which I cut down t o 13x10. The spline shaft coupling works a treat. It is instantly apparent when the system is out of alignment, when the sleeve does not slide smoothly fore and aft on the splined shaft ends.

Only thing is, the motor's internal fan is optimized for turning CCW, but with a right hand wheel and direct drive it is turning CW in FWD. I have been running it all day at 500w and the motor is barely warm to the touch, so maybe that's not a deal breaker. I will probably get me one of those bidirectional fans that Motenergy makes for their motors, just the same.

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Posted by: "Jason (Electric Boats) Taylor" <jt.yahoo@jtaylor.ca>
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Thursday, February 15, 2018

[Electric Boats] Re: Shaft Slip Joint Idea

 

Well, I finished the new motor and thrust bearing mount. Preliminary rough alignment gives me about the same performance figures as the old setup with the 2:1 gearbox. I say about, because I ran the motor with the boat tied down to the dock. Too windy for a good test run... the data would be all over the place, and previous testing was done in calm conditions so it would be apples and oranges. RPM/watt slightly lower, of course, tied down, but it looks about right. I was hoping to see the kind of improvement I saw before, with the rough and ready thrust bearing assembly bolted to the motor, but no cigar. Next week I will be replacing the beat up bent up old bronze shaft with a nice new SS one and replacing the cutless bearing, also switching from the 14x10 prop to its twin which I cut down to 13x10. The spline shaft coupling works a treat. It is instantly apparent when the system is out of alignment, when the sleeve does not slide smoothly fore and aft on the splined shaft ends.

Only thing is, the motor's internal fan is optimized for turning CCW, but with a right hand wheel and direct drive it is turning CW in FWD. I have been running it all day at 500w and the motor is barely warm to the touch, so maybe that's not a deal breaker. I will probably get me one of those bidirectional fans that Motenergy makes for their motors, just the same.

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Wednesday, February 14, 2018

Re: [Electric Boats] Re: Direct Drive QS Hub Motors

 

Hi All I have gone cold on the QS motors for a number of reasons. My plan now is to buy a 5KW Thunderstruck kit complete with a reduction unit and fit it to the Nordic 17. They seem to be the best value and are a popular choice for DIY. I am OK with the mechanical side of boat propulsion and basic 12 volt electrical systems but have a lot to learn about electric motors and controllers. I know this is dumb question and their are a lot of variables but what LiFePO4 battery bank capacity do I need to get a six hour run time at 48v? ... My budget could run to 16 x 3.2  Volt 200ah Calbs or Winstons is this enough? The motor used in the kit is a ME1305.  

On Mon, Jan 15, 2018 at 1:37 PM, Michael Ryan <mryanqld@gmail.com> wrote:
Although the QS 6000W motor I priced is designed for use on a small car and not a ebike type I am reconsidering this option. Their are questions about their durability and to go for a conventional proved motor is good advice. The design and fabrication of a thrust limiter or reduction drive system for me is not a problem as I have a mechanical background but only starting to get my head around the electrical side. I can see some advantages of indirect drive, proven components, no thrust on the motor, ratio's can be very easily changed, lifts the motor higher. The only disadvantage is power loss.  

Regarding correct prop size, on a previous heavy displacement sailboat fitted with a 30hp Yanmar the theoretical  hull speed was about 7..2 kts.  Full engine RPM flat out in calm water with no wind resulted in a wave forming at the transom and a noticeable squatting down in the stern. The engine was also loaded up and starting to blow black smoke. I believe that this boat had the optimum engine/propeller for it. The squatting down and stern wave is the boat trying to get up on the plane which is obviously not going to happen. Backing the throttle of 50% only reduced the speed to 5.5 kts.

The Nordic 17 based on a waterline lenght of 16 feet will have a theoretical  hull speed of about 5.1 kts.  I suspect the sweet spot for this hull will be around 4.5 kts.

On Mon, Jan 15, 2018 at 5:58 AM, Matthew Geier matthew@acfr..usyd.edu.au [electricboats] <electricboats@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
 


I have 'electrifed' a similar Nordic double ender - a project that
probably inspired 'mryanqld'. These boats need very little power - I've
found that the 'sweet spot' cruising speed for my hull, the system is
running only at 1500w.. I can wind the power up more, but little extra
speed is gained for the extra power, the boat just starts to pull a
bigger wave behind it.

I'm using the orginal prop that was on the boat when it used to have a
5.7hp two cylinder, two stroke 'Blaxland'. I believe the prop is the one
that came with the original Blaxland engine and designed for the high
torque two stroke. Certainly back in the 'stink pot' era when the clutch
started to wear I'd had the clutch slip instead of the prop cavitating
when the boat was under load (lots of teens hanging of the back wanting
to be towed through the water!)

I direct drive a Perm 132, although when my Trojan's finally give up, I
may go to 48v and put a 2:1 reduction on it, the higher voltage will
lower the current and the heat losses. (But the new gearbox losses may
be higher than my current heat losses :-)




--
Kind regards Mick 0414 264 312



--
Kind regards Mick 0414 264 312

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Posted by: Michael Ryan <mryanqld@gmail.com>
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Monday, February 12, 2018

[Electric Boats] SailTimeWind Instrument

 

Was at the boat show in Boston over the weekend & came across a vendor selling  wireless wind instruments fr use with tablets & phones. For $350.00 thought it was pretty cool. 


www.sailtimewind.com

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Sunday, February 11, 2018

Re: [Electric Boats] Re: 5kw liquid motor

 

Its for a solar water heater. Ought to work just fine.

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Re: [Electric Boats] Re: 5kw liquid motor

 

It is a 1976 built Cal 2-27, 7600lb 27' LOA about 23' LWL and I think 9' 3" beam. Bank is 8 6v golf cart batteries in series, 220ah for 48v nominal. Controller is Kelly sine wave type, I think 500a. Motor currently is ME0201014201 BLDC (PMAC) motor and I was using a 2:1 cast iron enclosed reduction gearbox. Prop is 14" x 10" pitch, RH. I am currently building a new mount that will incorporate a thrust bearing and splined shaft and sleeve coupling, for use as a direct drive setup or with a reduction gearbox. I have another 14x10 prop that I have cut down to 13" and I will be trying that one, and I will be adding a bidirectional fan since the motor now turns the wrong way for the original cooling fan to operate most efficiently. I will also be replacing the bendy twisty warpy old bronze shaft with a nice new SS one, and a new Cutless bearing as well. I hope to see a very efficient setup in the end.



---In electricboats@yahoogroups.com, <brucenoble@...> wrote :

King of NewOrleans   Thanks for your help   What kind of boat are you running   

On Feb 10, 2018, at 8:52 PM, king_of_neworleans <no_reply@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

 

A small bilge pump, maybe. Or bait aerator pump. Golden might have a cooling pump designed for the motor. You might want to thermostatically control the pump to reduce pump run time and power consumption when it is not needed.

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Re: [Electric Boats] Re: 5kw liquid motor

 


On Mon, Feb 12, 2018 at 3:40 AM, BRUCE NOBLE brucenoble@bellsouth.net [electricboats] <electricboats@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
 

King of NewOrleans   Thanks for your help   What kind of boat are you running   

On Feb 10, 2018, at 8:52 PM, king_of_neworleans <no_reply@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

 

A small bilge pump, maybe. Or bait aerator pump. Golden might have a cooling pump designed for the motor. You might want to thermostatically control the pump to reduce pump run time and power consumption when it is not needed.




--
Kind regards Mick 0414 264 312

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Posted by: Michael Ryan <mryanqld@gmail.com>
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