Sunday, February 11, 2018

Re: [Electric Boats] Re: 5kw liquid motor

 

King of NewOrleans   Thanks for your help   What kind of boat are you running   

On Feb 10, 2018, at 8:52 PM, king_of_neworleans <no_reply@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

 

A small bilge pump, maybe. Or bait aerator pump. Golden might have a cooling pump designed for the motor. You might want to thermostatically control the pump to reduce pump run time and power consumption when it is not needed.

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Posted by: BRUCE NOBLE <brucenoble@bellsouth.net>
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Saturday, February 10, 2018

[Electric Boats] Re: 5kw liquid motor

 

A small bilge pump, maybe. Or bait aerator pump. Golden might have a cooling pump designed for the motor. You might want to thermostatically control the pump to reduce pump run time and power consumption when it is not needed.

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Friday, February 9, 2018

[Electric Boats] 5kw liquid motor

 

And this might be my last question ------I think im going to use a 5kw liquid cooled motor and was wondering what would be a good pump to circulate my antifreeze through the motor .   also any extra info anyone thinks I might need will not be rejected....info is knowledge.    my boat is an old rowboat lifeboat weight fully loaded I guess will be around 1500 lbs ... I will have three 270 watt solar panels and batteries too   Maybe I will see some or you  on the Tenn -Tom river       Thanks again  Bruce   

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Posted by: brucenoble@bellsouth.net
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Re: [Electric Boats] Re: wiring diaigram

 

Thanks for the info   Bruce

On Feb 8, 2018, at 6:30 AM, king_of_neworleans <no_reply@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

 

Should be with the documentation for the controller. If not, look on the controller maker's site. If you buy the controller from the manufacturer be sure to tell them what motor you will be using so they can make the proper configuration settings. If you use a Kelly controller, be sure it is flashed with the "stick shift throttle" firmware. If this is then enabled in the configuration, you can use one control for both speed and direction. Typically a controller puts out a 5v supply to the throttle and the throttle control sends a control signal back to the controller that is simply a dc voltage between 0v and 5v which is read by the controller as the speed command, A switch grounds the REV pin for reverse. The stickshift option eliminates the need for a reverse switch. Half of the 0-5v range of the throttle input signal sets forward speed. Half of the range sets reverse speed. Right in the middle, a narrow range sets the motor at stop. A potentiometer of 1000 to 10k ohm can serve as the control device, or you can use a hall type throttle. I don't know if the Golden or Sevcon controllers have that feature or not.

Basically you have three big phase cable connections. Probably 5 wires going to the hall sensor array in the motor for the three hall signals, supply voltage, and ground. Three wires to the throttle, 5v, signal, and ground. Two wires for system ON switch, two for Reverse. Brake signal not needed unless you will sail fast enough to make use of regen. Optional boost switch, of use mostly to motorcycle builders and not much use for boats. Two wires for internal motor thermistor switch. A couple of optional external LEDs. Documentation will have pinouts. Premade wiring harnesses could have smallish phase and power cables and you really should go with about 2/0 cable for those. Everything else is likely to be too short or too long, The multiple wire blade connectors will be a source of trouble. So I suggest you get the appropriate connectors to plug directly into the ! controller and wire everything yourself. You can use screw terminal blocks to break everything up, and be sure to label wires for ease of troubleshooting or repair.



---In electricboats@yahoogroups.com, <brucenoble@...> wrote :

one more question for the group :  if one bought a 5kw motor and a 5kw controller with the wiring harness. does anyone have a wiring diagram showing wiring for forward / reverse and speed control using golden motors setup    or is there one hidden in this site somewhere        Thanks in advance  Bruce

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Posted by: BRUCE NOBLE <brucenoble@bellsouth.net>
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[Electric Boats] Re: Electric Conversion of my 1978 S2 8.0B

 

Im thinking about doing the same kit for a 25f diesel motorsail (Albin 25, I´m based i Sweden). I just started to reaserach this and cant really figure out how to connect shore power, generator and solar/wind to this kit. Anyone have experience with this?

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Posted by: smedbacka@yahoo.com
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Thursday, February 8, 2018

[Electric Boats] Re: wiring diaigram

 

Should be with the documentation for the controller. If not, look on the controller maker's site. If you buy the controller from the manufacturer be sure to tell them what motor you will be using so they can make the proper configuration settings. If you use a Kelly controller, be sure it is flashed with the "stick shift throttle" firmware. If this is then enabled in the configuration, you can use one control for both speed and direction. Typically a controller puts out a 5v supply to the throttle and the throttle control sends a control signal back to the controller that is simply a dc voltage between 0v and 5v which is read by the controller as the speed command, A switch grounds the REV pin for reverse. The stickshift option eliminates the need for a reverse switch. Half of the 0-5v range of the throttle input signal sets forward speed. Half of the range sets reverse speed. Right in the middle, a narrow range sets the motor at stop. A potentiometer of 1000 to 10k ohm can serve as the control device, or you can use a hall type throttle. I don't know if the Golden or Sevcon controllers have that feature or not.

Basically you have three big phase cable connections. Probably 5 wires going to the hall sensor array in the motor for the three hall signals, supply voltage, and ground. Three wires to the throttle, 5v, signal, and ground. Two wires for system ON switch, two for Reverse. Brake signal not needed unless you will sail fast enough to make use of regen. Optional boost switch, of use mostly to motorcycle builders and not much use for boats. Two wires for internal motor thermistor switch. A couple of optional external LEDs. Documentation will have pinouts. Premade wiring harnesses could have smallish phase and power cables and you really should go with about 2/0 cable for those. Everything else is likely to be too short or too long, The multiple wire blade connectors will be a source of trouble. So I suggest you get the appropriate connectors to plug directly into the controller and wire everything yourself. You can use screw terminal blocks to break everything up, and be sure to label wires for ease of troubleshooting or repair.



---In electricboats@yahoogroups.com, <brucenoble@...> wrote :

one more question for the group :  if one bought a 5kw motor and a 5kw controller with the wiring harness. does anyone have a wiring diagram showing wiring for forward / reverse and speed control using golden motors setup    or is there one hidden in this site somewhere        Thanks in advance  Bruce

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Wednesday, February 7, 2018

Re: [Electric Boats] #18650 Batteries

 

How do you cool the leaf batteries?
Or warm them up when cold before charging?

From what I have read they suffer from heating issues


From: "'P. Jeremy Baker' childscrick@yahoo.com [electricboats]" <electricboats@yahoogroups.com>
To: electricboats@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, February 6, 2018 9:15 PM
Subject: Re: [Electric Boats] #18650 Batteries

 
I found the Nissan Leaf batteries much easier to work with than the Chevy Volt batteries. The Volt are difficult to separate and a unwieldy shape. The terminals are unwieldy. Leaf batteries are simple building blocks for reconfiguring to what you need. 

Jeremy

On Feb 6, 2018, at 6:13 PM, Mark F mark.internet@yahoo.ca [electricboats] <electricboats@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

 
I made a pack for an ebike from used laptop cells at 36 volts.
Unfortunately I made the pack as 2 seperate serial packs connected in parallel, because I had 2 different capacity cells.
I monitored each serial pack at a midpoint to see if they stayed ballanced.
The 2 packs slowly were unbalanced.

I liked the power for the weight, but you would need alot of cells of the same capacity build in parallel blocks and then built serial with a BMS.

I found the cells warmed up quite a bit under hard use as well.( possibly I needed more cells to reduce the current per cell.

I think a better option is modules from a chevy volt .

They have 24v and 48 v modules at 45 AH

I hope to find time to use a 48 volt one this summer on my boat.
It has the ability to water cool the pack too.(it has water jackets in the plastic mouldings.
These have a similiar problem for large capacity that you would need a bms for each block, if connected in parallel. 
Lithium is more complicated, it seems





From: "oak oak_box@yahoo.com [electricboats]" <electricboats@yahoogroups.com>
To: "electricboats@yahoogroups.com" <electricboats@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, February 6, 2018 4:57 AM
Subject: [Electric Boats] #18650 Batteries

 
I saw AA Energizer Lithium batteries at the grocery store, and was thinking about the past a year (or two or three?) ago where someone said they were going to put together a bank from a whole bunch of small cells.

It seemed odd that they had plenty of lithium AA batteries, but no chargers.  Looking the internet, it kinda' seems like these aren't meant to be recharged - just used as a higher capacity disposable??  Is that really true?

Then, I came across #18650 batteries.  Just looking at the internet, they appeared to be very close to the AA battery form factor, but on closer inspection, longer and thicker - but also higher capacity?  And higher voltage - these were rated as 3.7V cells, not 1.5 like AA's.

Many of the 18650 batteries were about 3000mAh, but some by Garberiel, seemed reasonably priced (on Amazon), and claimed to be 6000mAh.   I haven't done the math yet, but it looked like it would be a cheap way to get a 48V bank quickly, and then as I wanted to put more $$ into it and as the experiments went forward, I could always add more capacity in parallel (which at that point would probably be more expensive than just buying higher capacity cells to begin with)..

Anyway, I was curious if anyone has played with these cells?  Is the 6000mAh rating likely to be real?

Sounds like it would take about 221 of these to make a 48V, 100Ah battery - is that right?
13 x 3.7=48V   17x6Ah>100Ah, so 221 cells to make up the bank...   @ about $15/10, about $330 for the bank???   That sounds way too good to be true.  Of course, there would need to be monitors and battery boxes, etc...   But does this math sound at all close???


John








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Posted by: Mark F <mark.internet@yahoo.ca>
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