Friday, November 6, 2015

[Electric Boats] Re: electric cats

 

We have seen a growing interest in cruising catamaran conversions and they are well suited for electric.  Of the size you are looking at, you would reduce the normally three diesel (two motors and a genset) to one diesel and two electric motors.  The cost to repower is high because there are two motors but the return to the boat owner is just as high.  It takes about twice the power to push a catamaran due to the fact it has significant wetted with two hulls.  Often catamarans were overpowered to allow one diesel to drive the boat at the theoretical hull speed.  This could be less of an issue but still a good practice.  Weight is a big issue with catamarans and you want to keep weight down so we normally see a modest battery pack and the use of a genset to handle greater power storage needs in addition to house needs.  Finally the catamaran allows a build out of a larger solar array and can just about triple the effective placement of solar than a monohull without making the boat look like a solar farm.

 

Good luck with the search.

Mike  Electric Yachts of Southern California/Pacific

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Posted by: mike@electricyachtssocal.com
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RE: [Electric Boats] electric cats

 

"I'm thinking of trying to purchase a 38 ft. - 45 ft. cruising catamaran and convert it to all electric (or hybrid if necessary)  and am looking for suggestions or concerns.  I am particularly interested in expected conversion costs and the types of power sources one might use." 

 

 

 

 

I don't know if your aware of the Lagoon 410 (41') or the 420 (42') Electrics produced in the past.

3 Lagoon 410's were produced as a test for the Solomons Technologies system in 2004. This system was built around a 144V pack of Lead Acid batteries with twin 9KW motors. It has a 16KW genset for a running backup and charging capabilities. The original Pack would allow for roughly 3 hours of run time however the batteries were junk and didn't last long. The 3 owners went to AGM's of different quality and improved their run times. All 3 boats were brought to the States or Islands on their bottoms. In 2 of the boats cases it was written that they had more electricity than they knew what to do with and ran the motors or ran the A/C systems to blead off power do to prop. Regen. It was later discovered that they could have moved the throttles slightly into reverse to stop the regen.

I own the 3rd one produced and currently moving to LiFePo4's and upgrading the BMS (ORION) and the Battery Monitoring System (custom/preproduction one from Andromeda).  Once I have the Monitoring system installed I'll post on it. I can say is it's going to be incredible. With a 144V pack I run at about 60A (total) for the motors. I plan on removing the "house" load with solar panels also this winter, roughly 500W of solar, to reduce the loads on the Propulsion pack extending my run times.

 

Do to some "differences in management" between the 2 companies Lagoon decided to go off on their own and developed the 420 as their idea of hybrid which involved a 72V pack and was to be marketed as the best thing out there for a Charter Fleet. Let's just say it didn't work and Lagoon ended up offering a free replacement of the electrical motors to a conventional Dyno system. There are a few of them left out there but I have no idea how many. Most would be owned by those who were willing to tinker and understood the system enough to operate it properly.

 

Someone recently had a Solomons Tech system for sale here. You might look back and see if he is still interested in selling it at a good price. I would highly recommend the 144V systems over lesser ones.

 

Steve in Solomons MD

 

 






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Posted by: "Sdolan" <sdolan@scannersllc.com>
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Re: [Electric Boats] Re: New member, developing electric outboard

 

Mike -


Good suggestion. I think a Boston Whaler sounds like a very good option for us to try. Not sure what length, though. The longer, the more efficient, and the more room for the battery packs. You're right that the center of gravity being further forward will help a lot with performance.

Andy

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Thursday, November 5, 2015

[Electric Boats] Re: Practical Sailor - Electric Propulsion

 

Hi Mike,
Although I've been in touch with you at Electric Yacht and decided to go instead with Electroprop for replacing the Atomic 4 in my 1976 C&C 33, I think it would be great to prod Practical Sailor to evaluate the various electric replacement products that are available.
Bob Moriarty
Ox C&C 33-1
Jax, FL

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Re: [Electric Boats] Need source for 48v. panel controller and panels-- my next step !

 

Hi, myles, nope all is well in EV land.  I decided that for lack of wanting a full size cover, windage, cleaning, etc., I get more bang for the buck with a second battery pack, I can do that 48 v. for about $200. plus the wiring that I have here.   If I get a bad batt., like did happen twice now, I just exchange it under warranty (or not!) with my friends outlet.  Pack solved, at least that part I hope.
 
Now I have had for years a great little 400 watt mini Honda gen., 4 stroke of course and darn near zero noise.  That resides in a closed vented compartment, with more sound proofing (coming soon) and will be hooked into a 6 amp or so lighter weight 48 volt charger.  Charge A pack while on B pack.  Takes a while, but that means a full charge overnight on a quart of gas, and it runs out about the time a pack would be refilled, by my estimate.  Charge rate for 400 watts and 48 volts looks like about 7.59 amps, from the web figures.  Safely then, say 6 amps. would do that.   I could also run one pack while charging the other, and mostly expect darn decent run times if I don't push it !!!   The big charger, and long term cycling units stay safely at home that way, out of weather etc.
 
New cupped prop is a 12.5 dia., by 12 pitch, as big as I dared on that lower unit, which is now rebuilt, and ready to rock.   The larger prop pressure, and lower rpm will maybe lower the lower unit noise I have (had?) by keeping the rpms lower.  I am adding a oversized, and longer SS lower unit skeg to protect that prop, thanks to I—Boats, and all their help getting the right rebuild kit, right prop and good advice .   At E boat speeds,  good skegs are a safety factor for river travel, not so much added drag, and no welding.
 
Trying to substitute time and experimenting for cash, I found 24 Oregon waters that do allow electric, NO GAS POWER allowed, so looking forward to some quiet waters I can trailer to, boat into the wilds, and have a decent camper too.  Sold my slide on camper, so the boat with full cover is the alternative, worked great at Lon's place and loon Lake.
 
Thanks, see you later,  Cal
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

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Posted by: "cal" <h20dragon@centurytel.net>
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Wednesday, November 4, 2015

[Electric Boats] Re: New member, developing electric outboard

 

Is he ever going to compete with the Boston Whaler crowd; or better with the sunset cruise over cocktails?

On Nov 3, 2015 7:07 AM, "mike@electricyachtssocal.com [electricboats]" <electricboats@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
 


Andy,

Excited about what you are building.  My advice?  If you are going to use the boat as a test/demonstration boat, you should get a boat that is more common in the market and would provide the most representative model for the market.  If you are looking at 20kW outboard, I would want to know how it pushes a 13ft Boston Whaler which is a well know and popular boat which is often powered by motors from 9.9hp to 40hp.  That would be a great demo boat to use in order for the market understand the capabilities of the motor. 

I also want to understand the 20kW continuous.  Does it have a higher rating for short bursts?  What is the voltage of the motor?  The 1500 RPM is good.  The special propeller also is of interest.  We know of other electric outboards that over compare their capabilities because in a controlled test their special propeller will perform better than what would be a real world usage.

Outboards are rated at the propeller (thrust) which is vastly different than what inboards are rated.  A 35 hp diesel (break hp) is actually about 28shp (shaft hp).  That is what we all expect.  My question is will your 20kW electric outboard therefore would likely be more comparable to a 28hp outboard (20000w / 746).  Very impressive and I believe there is a market for such a quiet powerful motor.  I would also think that a motor that would provide the thrust of a 9.9hp outboard would be even more popular.

Mike  Electric Yachts of Southern California/Pacific

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Posted by: Mark Albanese <marka97203@gmail.com>
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[Electric Boats] Re: New member, developing electric outboard

 

A few have asked, here on the forum and by direct message, for more details, so I thought I'd answer the questions all in one place. Thanks for all the thought people put into their replies.


OUTBOARD DETAILS
It will do 20 kW continuous, meaning for very long periods without danger of overheating. We can do 25 kW for short periods (we have not tested the limits, but at least 30 seconds). We may be able to do better, once we have more test data.

Everyone here knows that 20 kW = 26.8 HP. Mike you ask very good questions about how we can make any claims about propulsion comparisons with gas motors. We mounted our motor on a Still Water hull and took it out and tested against equivalent catamaran coach boats with 30 HP gas outboards that were permanently attached and used daily by the University of Washington. Our outboard out-accelerated the UW boats and provided higher top speed. We could beat them below 20 kW, probably around 16 kW. While we cannot say that their prop was perfect for their motor/hull, we can say that it is what is commonly used by daily, experienced boaters. So in a practical sense, our motor provides more propulsion and more acceleration than a 30 HP gas outboard, when both are used on a boat properly matched with the best available prop (in our case, our own prop).

Our voltage is 350V nominal, using our own design 6 kWh battery packs, which can be combined. (When combined, they work in parallel, to keep discharge/charge rates low.) High voltage is a trade-off, of course. We get lower motor weight, lower heat generation, lower current, higher efficiency than a low-voltage system, but we have safety issues to contend with. That's why we require our own battery pack, which is thermally controlled and which must affirmatively communicate with the motor (over CAN) before any contactors close and activate the HV system. All connections and components on the boat are IP67 rated.

PROP
The prop is aluminum three-blade, 14" diameter, 1500 RPM. The larger diameter / lower RPM enables more efficient operation. A plastic prop at this power is too flexible, so the shape becomes less efficient, and the thickness of the blades creates too much friction.

HULL RECOMMENDATIONS
Ned's boat looks like a very efficient and attractive one to try, when we can get our system out to the East Coast (which we plan to do). I also think the Boston Whaler suggestion sounds good. It will be interesting to see what performance we get. (I'll post back here when I have results.) No one seemed to like the rigid inflatable option, but maybe a high-quality one would be stiff enough to get up on plane and ride efficiently.

Thanks to all for the feedback!

Andy


---In electricboats@yahoogroups.com, <mike@...> wrote :


Andy,

Excited about what you are building.  My advice?  If you are going to use the boat as a test/demonstration boat, you should get a boat that is more common in the market and would provide the most representative model for the market.  If you are looking at 20kW outboard, I would want to know how it pushes a 13ft Boston Whaler which is a well know and popular boat which is often powered by motors from 9.9hp to 40hp.  That would be a great demo boat to use in order for the market understand the capabilities of the motor. 

I also want to understand the 20kW continuous.  Does it have a higher rating for short bursts?  What is the voltage of the motor?  The 1500 RPM is good.  The special propeller also is of interest.  We know of other electric outboards that over compare their capabilities because in a controlled test their special propeller will perform better than what would be a real world usage.

Outboards are rated at the propeller (thrust) which is vastly different than what inboards are rated.  A 35 hp diesel (break hp) is actually about 28shp (shaft hp).  That is what we all expect.  My question is will your 20kW electric outboard therefore would likely be more comparable to a 28hp outboard (20000w / 746).  Very impressive and I believe there is a market for such a quiet powerful motor.  I would also think that a motor that would provide the thrust of a 9.9hp outboard would be even more popular.

Mike  Electric Yachts of Southern California/Pacific

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Posted by: rebele@gmail.com
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