Wednesday, November 28, 2012

Re: [Electric Boats] Re: Paint for ME0913

 

As long as the infrared energy of a light source does not seem to be at work here, maybe a cheap heater would be found in the low-cost hot melt applicators that use PTC devices. No controller, no thermostat, comes all ready to plug in and could be banged around some without breaking. Wattage values are somewhat iffy in that it depends on how it's loaded. Nominal 80 watts here:

http://www.glu-stix.com/shop/page/product_detail/Product/0c202020a6b0e7357466c3c4c416bb67.html

Walter

On 11/28/2012 11:02 AM, greenpjs04 wrote:
 

Just a comment about light bulbs... Incandescent bulbs (ie, not florescent, CFL, LED, etc) are a pure resistive load. In other words, they are not indictive or capacitive. Therefore they make pretty good heaters for enclosed spaces. A 100 watt bulb, will supply 100 watts of heat to an enclosed space. Some of that (more than you might guess) is directly produced as heat while the rest of comes away from the bulb as light. That light, however, then gets absorbed by "stuff" in the space and gets converted to heat.

I would still recommend buying parts designed to be used as heaters such as the one you recommended because light bulbs can easily get broken and they burn out, but light bulbs do work as heaters.

Pat

--- In electricboats@yahoogroups.com, "Reid" <axius@...> wrote:
>
> Jim,
> That is the perfect part for the job. Most people don't seem to >realize that you want a pure resistive load to generate heat, not a >light bulb.


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Re: [Electric Boats] power generation

 

I purchased one of the 4000w china diesel gen-sets. The engine can be
purchased by itself. Out of the box I had to fix the injector pump to
make it work. Because of the faulty installation at the factory the pump
had a very short life and had to be replaced within a year. I was able
to contact the importer and purchase a new injector pump so figure most
parts are available but would not buy another one. Noise is way above
the advertised level (tested according to the standard testing methods
with a meter). I don't believe you would want to use one if you could
not stay at least 100 ft away from it. I tried an enclosure with noise
abatement sheeting without satisfactory results. I drove a half mile
away from the gen-set while running and could still tell it was running.
Even a water muffler like on the boat didn't help much because the fins
on the motor resonate.

Maybe some people on this or other list have come up with methods to
quiet one of these beasts but I couldn't.

Kevin Pemberton

On 11/27/2012 01:35 PM, Michael Mccomb wrote:
> look up the Duke10048... china diesels are a tricky proposition as you don't know quality or where to get parts
>
>
> ________________________________
> From: "VE7YID@yahoo.com" <VE7YID@yahoo.com>
> To: electricboats@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Tuesday, November 27, 2012 11:53 AM
> Subject: [Electric Boats] power generation
>
>
>
> I have been researching aux. power generation using a 6 or 10 hp air cooled diesel motor. A six hp diesel will easily handle 100 amp alt. These diesels are made in china, but the price is within my budget. Does anyone in the group have any experience or insight into these motors?
> Erik, S-2c SV "Eved"
>
>

--
Committing murder in exchange for lifestyle
makes you a "thug" not a "Rights Activist"

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[Electric Boats] Re: Paint for ME0913

 

Just a comment about light bulbs... Incandescent bulbs (ie, not florescent, CFL, LED, etc) are a pure resistive load. In other words, they are not indictive or capacitive. Therefore they make pretty good heaters for enclosed spaces. A 100 watt bulb, will supply 100 watts of heat to an enclosed space. Some of that (more than you might guess) is directly produced as heat while the rest of comes away from the bulb as light. That light, however, then gets absorbed by "stuff" in the space and gets converted to heat.

I would still recommend buying parts designed to be used as heaters such as the one you recommended because light bulbs can easily get broken and they burn out, but light bulbs do work as heaters.

Pat

--- In electricboats@yahoogroups.com, "Reid" <axius@...> wrote:
>
> Jim,
> That is the perfect part for the job. Most people don't seem to >realize that you want a pure resistive load to generate heat, not a >light bulb.

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[Electric Boats] Re: Paint for ME0913

 

Hi Bradley,

I second Jim's suggestion to use T9 on your motor. That said, I have lightly sprayed and wiped down my SolidNav Explorer once in 4 1/2 years and it still looks nearly new.

Interesting idea for those resisters. I use a couple of them to drain off individual battery voltage when balancing the lithium batteries in my electric van. They do get real hot.

Mark
Santa Cruz

--- In electricboats@yahoogroups.com, matt elder <mattelderca@...> wrote:
>
> For heater pads you could also use a product like this,
> http://www.coleparmer.ca/1/1/12941-silicone-rubber-laminated-heat-mat-w-adhesive-12-x-6-180-watts-120-vac.html
> This link shows a 180W 115V unit but they come in many voltages and wattages, 12v, 24v, 48v, 10w, 30w, 60w, etc. and will run on DC if required.
> They are rubber, flexible, self adhesive, and some are self regulating.
> Stuck on the sides of an aluminium mount, they would keep all the metal bits warm.
> You could also use them on chargers and power converters to keep the units warm in cold climates.
> I imagine they could be used for wind dump loads as well. You could even use them to keep batteries warm.
>
>
>
>  
> mattelderca
>
>
> >________________________________
> > From: luv2bsailin <luv2bsailin@...>
> >To: electricboats@yahoogroups.com
> >Sent: Wednesday, November 28, 2012 12:13:16 AM
> >Subject: [Electric Boats] Re: Paint for ME0913
> >
> >
> > 
> >I go along the previous comments. I little white "fuzz" on the surface is not serious, though it looks tacky. I like Boeshield T9, though any light corrosion spray such as LPS-1 or 2 or even WD-40 is better than nothing. Just wipe it down once and a while when you do your periodic inspections, and put a little on the power terminals too while you're at it.
> >Someone was talking about heating the engine compartment with a light bulb or something. I've always though it would be a good idea to mount a resistive heater of some kind on the mount structure to keep it warm when the charger is plugged in. Something like this would work:
> >
> >http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/TMC050500R0FE02/TMC50-500-ND/269981
> >
> >This example would do 26 Watts at 115VAC and is almost bullet proof.
> >
> >Jim
> >
> >--- In electricboats@yahoogroups.com, "Carel Ruysink" <c.ruysink@> wrote:
> >>
> >> I have seen people using on the motor and alternator of their car (old/young timer) raw linseedoil lightly dilluted with turpentine. It has good penetration, good protection, is invisible and rather well resistant to heat (boiling water temperature).
> >>
> >> another 2 cents,
> >> Carel
> >>
> >> ----- Original Message -----
> >> From: Mike Gunning
> >> To: electricboats@yahoogroups.com
> >> Sent: Tuesday, November 27, 2012 5:38 AM
> >> Subject: [Electric Boats] Re: Paint for ME0913
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> After checking with our technical guys and the consensus is not to paint. Taking the motor apart will present significant problems. Is the motor compartment dry? There is no real significant loss of efficiency with the oxidizing. You can try cleaning and light oiling to reduce the oxidizing. Keep the compartment as dry as possible.
> >> Mike
> >> Electric Yacht of Southern California
> >>
> >> --- In electricboats@yahoogroups.com, semicolonsutra <no_reply@> wrote:
> >> >
> >> > Hi,
> >> >
> >> > My ME0913 has been installed in a wooden boat docked in SF Bay Area. The casing is oxidizing a little bit and I'm wondering if I should paint the enclosure. Does anyone have an opinion about this? And if I should paint it would I then take off the casing and paint it inside and out (the casing not the coil etc)?
> >> >
> >> > Any advice would be appreciated.
> >> >
> >> > Bradley
> >> >
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>

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[Electric Boats] Re: Paint for ME0913

 

Jim,
That is the perfect part for the job. Most people don't seem to realize that you want a pure resistive load to generate heat, not a light bulb. This one is very inexpensive and will last forever. Most people who don't use a light bulb, will use a $30 "Dry Rod" which is just a potted resistor in an anodized tube.

http://www.libertysafe.com/accessory-dry-rod-dehumidifier-ps-16-pg-15.html

--- In electricboats@yahoogroups.com, Aaron <akenai@...> wrote:
>
> I have seen this stuf advertized at a few places that sell wind generators http://www.hydrogenappliances.com/marine.html
>
>
>
> ________________________________
> From: luv2bsailin <luv2bsailin@...>
> To: electricboats@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Tuesday, November 27, 2012 8:13 PM
> Subject: [Electric Boats] Re: Paint for ME0913
>
> I go along the previous comments. I little white "fuzz" on the surface is not serious, though it looks tacky. I like Boeshield T9, though any light corrosion spray such as LPS-1 or 2 or even WD-40 is better than nothing. Just wipe it down once and a while when you do your periodic inspections, and put a little on the power terminals too while you're at it.
> Someone was talking about heating the engine compartment with a light bulb or something. I've always though it would be a good idea to mount a resistive heater of some kind on the mount structure to keep it warm when the charger is plugged in. Something like this would work:
>
> http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/TMC050500R0FE02/TMC50-500-ND/269981
>
> This example would do 26 Watts at 115VAC and is almost bullet proof.
>
> Jim
>
>
> --- In electricboats@yahoogroups.com, "Carel Ruysink" <c.ruysink@> wrote:
> >
> > I have seen people using on the motor and alternator of their car (old/young timer) raw linseedoil lightly dilluted with turpentine. It has good penetration, good protection, is invisible and rather well resistant to heat (boiling water temperature).
> >
> > another 2 cents,
> > Carel
> >
> >  ----- Original Message -----
> >  From: Mike Gunning
> >  To: electricboats@yahoogroups.com
> >  Sent: Tuesday, November 27, 2012 5:38 AM
> >  Subject: [Electric Boats] Re: Paint for ME0913
> >
> >
> >   
> >  After checking with our technical guys and the consensus is not to paint. Taking the motor apart will present significant problems. Is the motor compartment dry? There is no real significant loss of efficiency with the oxidizing. You can try cleaning and light oiling to reduce the oxidizing. Keep the compartment as dry as possible.
> >  Mike
> >  Electric Yacht of Southern California
> >
> >  --- In electricboats@yahoogroups.com, semicolonsutra <no_reply@> wrote:
> >  >
> >  > Hi,
> >  >
> >  > My ME0913 has been installed in a wooden boat docked in SF Bay Area. The casing is oxidizing a little bit and I'm wondering if I should paint the enclosure. Does anyone have an opinion about this? And if I should paint it would I then take off the casing and paint it inside and out (the casing not the coil etc)?
> >  >
> >  > Any advice would be appreciated.
> >  >
> >  > Bradley
> >  >
> >
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>     http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>

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Re: [Electric Boats] Re: Paint for ME0913

 

For heater pads you could also use a product like this,
http://www.coleparmer.ca/1/1/12941-silicone-rubber-laminated-heat-mat-w-adhesive-12-x-6-180-watts-120-vac.html
This link shows a 180W 115V unit but they come in many voltages and wattages, 12v, 24v, 48v, 10w, 30w, 60w, etc. and will run on DC if required.
They are rubber, flexible, self adhesive, and some are self regulating.
Stuck on the sides of an aluminium mount, they would keep all the metal bits warm.
You could also use them on chargers and power converters to keep the units warm in cold climates.
I imagine they could be used for wind dump loads as well. You could even use them to keep batteries warm.


 
mattelderca
From: luv2bsailin <luv2bsailin@yahoo.com>
To: electricboats@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, November 28, 2012 12:13:16 AM
Subject: [Electric Boats] Re: Paint for ME0913

 
I go along the previous comments. I little white "fuzz" on the surface is not serious, though it looks tacky. I like Boeshield T9, though any light corrosion spray such as LPS-1 or 2 or even WD-40 is better than nothing. Just wipe it down once and a while when you do your periodic inspections, and put a little on the power terminals too while you're at it.
Someone was talking about heating the engine compartment with a light bulb or something. I've always though it would be a good idea to mount a resistive heater of some kind on the mount structure to keep it warm when the charger is plugged in. Something like this would work:

http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/TMC050500R0FE02/TMC50-500-ND/269981

This example would do 26 Watts at 115VAC and is almost bullet proof.

Jim

--- In electricboats@yahoogroups.com, "Carel Ruysink" <c.ruysink@...> wrote:
>
> I have seen people using on the motor and alternator of their car (old/young timer) raw linseedoil lightly dilluted with turpentine. It has good penetration, good protection, is invisible and rather well resistant to heat (boiling water temperature).
>
> another 2 cents,
> Carel
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Mike Gunning
> To: electricboats@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Tuesday, November 27, 2012 5:38 AM
> Subject: [Electric Boats] Re: Paint for ME0913
>
>
>
> After checking with our technical guys and the consensus is not to paint. Taking the motor apart will present significant problems. Is the motor compartment dry? There is no real significant loss of efficiency with the oxidizing. You can try cleaning and light oiling to reduce the oxidizing. Keep the compartment as dry as possible.
> Mike
> Electric Yacht of Southern California
>
> --- In electricboats@yahoogroups.com, semicolonsutra <no_reply@> wrote:
> >
> > Hi,
> >
> > My ME0913 has been installed in a wooden boat docked in SF Bay Area. The casing is oxidizing a little bit and I'm wondering if I should paint the enclosure. Does anyone have an opinion about this? And if I should paint it would I then take off the casing and paint it inside and out (the casing not the coil etc)?
> >
> > Any advice would be appreciated.
> >
> > Bradley
> >
>



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Tuesday, November 27, 2012

Re: [Electric Boats] Re: Paint for ME0913

 


Great post!  I can think of several uses for this stuff...Am radio gear, battery connections etc.!
--- On Tue, 11/27/12, Aaron <akenai@yahoo.com> wrote:

From: Aaron <akenai@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [Electric Boats] Re: Paint for ME0913
To: "electricboats@yahoogroups.com" <electricboats@yahoogroups.com>
Date: Tuesday, November 27, 2012, 10:17 PM



I have seen this stuf advertized at a few places that sell wind generators http://www.hydrogenappliances.com/marine.html

From: luv2bsailin <luv2bsailin@yahoo.com>
To: electricboats@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, November 27, 2012 8:13 PM
Subject: [Electric Boats] Re: Paint for ME0913

I go along the previous comments. I little white "fuzz" on the surface is not serious, though it looks tacky. I like Boeshield T9, though any light corrosion spray such as LPS-1 or 2 or even WD-40 is better than nothing. Just wipe it down once and a while when you do your periodic inspections, and put a little on the power terminals too while you're at it.
Someone was talking about heating the engine compartment with a light bulb or something. I've always though it would be a good idea to mount a resistive heater of some kind on the mount structure to keep it warm when the charger is plugged in. Something like this would work:

http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/TMC050500R0FE02/TMC50-500-ND/269981

This example would do 26 Watts at 115VAC and is almost bullet proof.

Jim


--- In electricboats@yahoogroups.com, "Carel Ruysink" <c.ruysink@...> wrote:
>
> I have seen people using on the motor and alternator of their car (old/young timer) raw linseedoil lightly dilluted with turpentine. It has good penetration, good protection, is invisible and rather well resistant to heat (boiling water temperature).
>
> another 2 cents,
> Carel
>
>  ----- Original Message -----
>  From: Mike Gunning
>  To: electricboats@yahoogroups.com
>  Sent: Tuesday, November 27, 2012 5:38 AM
>  Subject: [Electric Boats] Re: Paint for ME0913
>
>
>   
>  After checking with our technical guys and the consensus is not to paint. Taking the motor apart will present significant problems. Is the motor compartment dry? There is no real significant loss of efficiency with the oxidizing. You can try cleaning and light oiling to reduce the oxidizing. Keep the compartment as dry as possible.
>  Mike
>  Electric Yacht of Southern California
>
>  --- In electricboats@yahoogroups.com, semicolonsutra <no_reply@> wrote:
>  >
>  > Hi,
>  >
>  > My ME0913 has been installed in a wooden boat docked in SF Bay Area. The casing is oxidizing a little bit and I'm wondering if I should paint the enclosure. Does anyone have an opinion about this? And if I should paint it would I then take off the casing and paint it inside and out (the casing not the coil etc)?
>  >
>  > Any advice would be appreciated.
>  >
>  > Bradley
>  >
>




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