Posted by: Ric Sanders <rsandersemail@gmail.com>
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I get a suspiciosly large number of speed readings that are exactly .47kt or .97kt or similar with Android speedo apps. Plus, a lot of times if I just mentally pace myself walking along a pier I am passing in my boat, it seems sometimes that the speed reading is considerably slower. I have tried enabling/disabling the high accuracy setting in the device, even removing the SIM card so it can't triangulate off cell towers, and still I am suspicious of the speed readout. I have tried recording waypoints and timing the run between them and calculating distance and speed, but what a PITA. Even OCPN gives me suspicious looking speed over ground. Anybody else noticed this, and found something better, short of a standalone GPS?
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One thing for certain John, when it comes to boats nothing is ever cheap.
After much investigation & pricing, I decided to purchase a browning in line single stage helical gear drive. Final ratio works out to 1.75-1.
I looked looked at Baldor & Nord, Browning was a few bucks cheaper.
Also talked with James at Electroprop last week. What a knowledgeable man he is. Anyone out there that has the cash to pay full boat for a system would not go wrong doing business with him.
Once I get the install complete I'll post a couple of pictures.
Bob
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On Sat, 5/20/17, 66b6dcd5b59507e7d751ea81382ea1f6 <no_reply@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
Subject: Re: [Electric Boats] Gonna Try Direct Drive.
To: electricboats@yahoogroups.com
Date: Saturday, May 20, 2017, 11:45 PM
Hi Bob,
Interesting when scaled up. The same economics in a sense in
trying to maximise the serial efficiency of an electric
propulsion system to maximise range for the least cost.
John R
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Hi Myles,
Just whilst we are on about props. The company I work part time for sponsor solar boat racing ref:
https://www.victronenergy.com/blog/?s=clafis
Anyhow they are racing today and it's the first time I've seen a photo of the props they use (albeit damaged). Interesting as it basically looks similar to the duoprops I ran on my Volvo motorboat.
John R
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Eric,
Hope I have the right reply edit/update to an earlier post!
Oops, apologies I meant 2.2kW continuous for me running 24V direct drive, which relates to about 100Amp continuous at the motor which is fine at our UK ambient temps, using 25,6V nominal lithium as opposed to 24V lead (gives a tad more voltage at motor and less voltage sag which is nice for V vs A balance/efficiency).
Having said that I bought a less expensive 80A continuous controller, 250A peak as I only ever run up to 1600W continuous measured at the battery and the headroom is for burst speeds/manouvering. Had I wanted more I'd have chosen the M (Medium format as opposed to S (Small) which would have allowed running at half continuous controller rating which would have been nice:
PMT445M 24-48V 450A / 60s Peak 180A Continuous
PMT425S 24-48V 250A / 20s Peak 80A Continuous
Ref: http://www.cw-industrialgroup.com/Products/Motor-Controllers-Industrial-Vehicles/Sigmadrive/Induction-Motor-Controller.aspx
John R
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Eric,
Totally agree re those other spreadsheets, but they are only a guide and can be modded based on experience. James and Mike as you say have the best predictors here, as I've proved/confirmed with my own tests to my own satisfaction. Also I'd say you can't beat a tow test. Or simply go with 1kW/ton loaded as a rule of thumb for smaller sailboats and that should be plenty.
Of course other factors need to be considered too in terms of power required as not all want say 90% hull speed in calm water plus larger power reserves say comparing canal vs seagoing. My own requirements were more based on cost, space and weight with a reasonable cruising speed of around 0.65 of hull with a little reserve power on a sailboat, where sails are the prime mover. Indeed my own system compares just fine at 24V with 2.2kW peak with the old 10hp, admittedly only at cruise in calm water - but to me that's when I need it most (other than berthing in the marina) as the wind isn't blowing! More power in that free wind than any battery...
John R
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No offence but any Chinese 'suitcase' type generators I've had experience with are very poor quality. Better of with a 'suitcase, 'silent', Honda or Yamaha or indeed Hyundai one, subject to higher output requirements. Trusted brands?
John R
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Hi Mike,
I'd spoken to Graeme Hawksley at http://www.hybrid-marine.co.uk/ some time back about his regen with the Lynch, and naturally because of commercial confidentiality he wasn't prepared to disclose his 'black box' for regen purposes which he has put a lot of work into, although he was very pleasant and helpful. My reason for speaking to him was I was considering experimenting with an MPPT solar charge controller for regen/charging but my boat simply doesn't have a high enough hull speed, so it was more out of curiosity.
Anyhow, I think you are quite right that it is not easy to have a good charging solution as you certainly have to be able to control it well as the battery reaches full charge. Having said that I think for lithium it would be easier especially as they are basically bulk all the way to 98% and in my case my BMS and high/low voltage relay cut offs would help.
As regards Beta and the hybrid. I also spoke to them a few years back. Their point is commercial and they don't see much benefit, even in terms of fuel savings, to offering a hybrid solution. Clearly Hawksley does that or other benefits and has continued. I think the attraction there is that a hybrid is great for canal barges. Electric propulsion being good at low power witha hybrid, quieter than diesel which is quite an attraction on our canals and a generator as an all in one package as most barges have high house loads and can often be away from shore supply when cruising. Personally and having said that I think 2 dimensional solar and better still my calcs for 3D solar with an MPPT on each face on the long, wide coachroof of a barge is a nicer solution plus a small Honda genny when needed and just pure electric propulsion with a decent bank of lithium or Supercycle or TPPL AGMs.
John R.
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