Monday, March 31, 2014

Re: [Electric Boats] Propane generators

 

+1.  Store propane properly and treat it with respect, and it's a superior -- and cleaner -- fuel. 

I used to be very involved with ship-borne propane transportation -- up to 50,000 TONS at a time  (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gas_carriers)To my knowledge, there has never been a catastrophic explosion involving LPG carriers in their 80 year history.    And, just like those vessels, your propane tank system is designed to be sealed, with no fuel/air contact until point of use.  While heavy, a propane tank is "bulletproof", and airtight -- unlike gasoline cans.  And unlike gasoline, if you can smell it at other than the burner tip, you know something's WRONG.  No O2 means no possibility of ignition, much less a BLEVE (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Boiling_liquid_expanding_vapor_explosion). 

-Per



 


-----Original Message-----
From: cirejay <cirejay@hotmail.com>
To: electricboats <electricboats@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Mon, Mar 31, 2014 4:57 pm
Subject: Re: [Electric Boats] Propane generators

 

First off, propane, carried on deck as one should carry portable gasoline,  is no more likely to explode than gasoline and probably much less likely. 
Second, if, like most, you cook with propane why carry two potentially dangerous fuels onboard.  
eric SV Meander


---In electricboats@yahoogroups.com, <jeff@...> wrote :

Not to mention propane is much more likely to explode :)

On 3/31/2014 11:45 AM, Kevin Pemberton wrote:
> Why go with propane? Propane has only 80%of the power of gasoline. No
> matter what port you go into you will likely find gas, but will have to
> travel to get propane.
>
> Another bottle carried aboard for longer trips will cost much more to
> purchase for propane. A gas can can likely be borrowed.
>
> Kevin
> On Mar 30, 2014 11:06 AM, <bradley.a.bates@...> wrote:
>
>>
>> Has anyone used or considered using something like these onboard?
>>
>>
>> http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=sr_nr_p_n_feature_keywords_5?rh=n%3A2972638011%2Cn%3A%213238155011%2Cn%3A552808%2Cn%3A348967011%2Cp_n_power_source_browse-bin%3A4619671011%2Cp_n_feature_four_browse-bin%3A3619898011%2Cp_n_feature_keywords_browse-bin%3A4827497011&bbn=348967011&ie=UTF8&qid=1396198124&rnid=4827495011
>>
>> I currently have a small portable gasoline generator that I am planning to
>> wire into my home circuits with a cut-over switch system. These small
>> units produce enough power to run several appliances and could easily run a
>> battery charging system. When removed from the frames they should not
>> require much room and are not very heavy. Since we plan to use propane on
>> board for cooking and possibly refrigeration, these seem to be a logical
>> accessory.
>>
>> Any thoughts out there on this subject?
>>
>> Brad Bates
>> Play Mate
>>
>>

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Re: [Electric Boats] Voltage converters you can make

 

Thanks, Kevin.  That was most helpful.  I AM an engineer, but my graduate studies were back in the early 70's!  Needless to say, things have really changed over the years.  While I'm pretty current on some topics in the general field of EE, power supplies, regulators, and the like are not among them.  Now I've got some reading to do.

Dave


On Mon, Mar 31, 2014 at 1:27 PM, Kevin Pemberton <pembertonkevin@gmail.com> wrote:
 

OK, I will do my best. Much of my downloaded info was lost with a computer crash. I have much of the info backed up but where I got it is questionable. Start with jaycar's pdf called dcdcconv.pdf for a primer.

Microchip has a document called buck converter design example.  If you want to calculate outputs this download will help you.

International rectifier has circuits like the ir2117 that likely have design data sheets with more on dc to dc converters. If not look online on their site. Someplace there I found information on converters, because I have some of that in my info.

Arduino has a project listing for a power supply using dc to dc converter that I used to build my first circuit of a dc to dc converter. My circuit was used to charge batteries at a rate of 50amps. The design was a three stage charger. That design was unfortunately lost in the crash.

Much of the information I have has a copyright on it so I can't just post it.

Problem as I stated earlier, I am having trouble finding all my files. Because I need to build another project, I will be re-locating much of the old sources, but this may take a while if still published online. I am thinking a Cuk converter the next time around for the low ripple.

For the record. Computers have taken a lot of the calculation out of making one of these. I am using AI fuzzy logic when I program the controller. I start with a smaller PWM number than required and check the output voltage with the voltage divider then increase the pwm number till the desired voltage is reached. This takes a little time to stablize but never has overvoltaged on me.

My variable voltage power supply is set to the desired voltage and I program the arduino to send the reading to my computer via usb. This number I then program as a constant to compare to my reading from the divider.
If you wonder how to use the PWM output, it is the analog output of the arduino/wiring programming language for the arduino IDE. Note that the freq. Is much lower as programmed with the analog out command than is normal for dc to dc converters. You can change this with avrcpp with a few instructions in C by changing the counter/divider timer values. Or just use larger components. I have done both and find the larger components the easer method for a one off project. This is also why my next project will be of the Cuk design. I need the ripple free output for that project.  You also have got the benefit of my past posts. My new 12v system will be a bank of capacitors rather than a battery. The thought of wasting power to charge a battery when the power to do it is comming from a off grid battery bank and sources makes no sense.

Oh! Almost forgot, spice is a development started with the development of the IC, at Berkeley University in California, then released to opensource. It is used as a lab to test circuits without having to build a prototype. I use the opensource version. Topspice is a windows version of spice that has a trial version that can be used for personal use. The website referenced at the start of this thread has a link to download it. As well as a script to run in it to see how the dc to dc circuit will respond to different components you may already have in your junk drawer.

Tutorials for arduino system show how to configure components and drive transistors. Driving any kind of load from a micro processor pin will only serve to distroy the processor. Read the tutorials online before you get started. Driving high voltage (over 5volts) loads without opto-couplers is a bad practice. This includes my voltage divider. To protect the processor the high side resistor is 1/8w and the low side resistor is1/2 w when I build one. My idea is should a resistor burn out it will likely be the lower watt one. This in turn will keep the pin from ever getting the full high side voltage. It will instead go to ground. This to has a bad side effect. The output  will peg unless you program a failsafe. For me this is done by turning off the PWM pin should the voltage go to 0 after checking for an input voltage.

Kevin

P.S.  as I recall ecircuits an online site has a study course on dc to dc converters. Yes I think that is one of my references. I seldom follow a course to the end, I just get what I need. My guess is they have a ICR channel for discussion where you can get the answers you need real time. If not I bet you can find an IRC easily enough. Of course if you don't mind waiting on my responses keep this topic here, but remember I am not a teacher or engineer, just a hobbiest.

 

Kevin,

I would also like to add my appreciation for the hints you provided!

Is this the Arduino project reference you were looking at?  >>   https://sites.google.com/site/wayneholder/12-volt-charge-pump

That project looks very interesting to start with and begin tinkering.  I saw an article on wikipedia about boost circuits and pumps.  The described the basic circuit, but didn't show how easy it was to implement with a controller, and I don't recall seeing the diode configuration shown in the Arduino project.  In my previous google searches for tutorials and circuits, the references you (Kevin) suggested didn't pop up.  Thank you!

Wayne's project is unfortunately limited by using the controller pins to directly charge the capacitors.  So I can see that he can get from 5V to 12 or even 18V at no load, or very little load.  I'm guessing that I could add switches (transistors) between the controller and the capacitors to get it to boost the current capacity a bit.  One question I would have on that would be whether only (+) needed to be switched, or if (gnd) would also have to be switched (2x transistors per connection).   I haven't had a chance to play with it yet....

But I'm also guessing that there's a limit to how far this can be pushed.  I'm skeptical that this can be practically scaled up to the 10-15A range.

And, as you mentioned in other emails - there's definitely a limit to how much power you can suck out of one battery to produce the desired voltage.

I haven't had a chance to tinker with voltage pumps yet.  They look cool, and would certainly solve some problems.  But it would be no surprise to run into practical limits....

John


From: Dave Steere <dcsteere@dcsteere.com>
To: electricboats@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, March 20, 2014 10:42 AM
Subject: Re: [Electric Boats] Voltage converters you can make

 
Kevin, I'm fascinated by this subject but it would be very helpful if you could share a little more of what you've found in your own research.  For example, I don't know what Top Spice is, or where to find it.  Also the particular on line sources for other information about high current PWM DC:DC converters using Arduino would be super helpful.  If you have actually gotten far enough into this to design a particular DC:DC converter using the approach, would you be willing to share the schematic and maybe a few design notes that would be helpful to others of us interested in doing a similar project?  I have tinkered with analog approaches but for one reason or another, most of my attempts have shown one or more design flaws and I can't really claim to have been totally successful, esp when trying to draw 10-15 Amps of current.




On Wed, Mar 19, 2014 at 2:42 PM, Kevin Pemberton <pembertonkevin@gmail.com> wrote:
 
Because many of you have wanted to know more about dc to dc power supplys I have looked up some things that helped me learn more about them.
Most engineers use black box devices to put a system together rather than build from scratch. We will not build from scratch but will open the case on the blackbox.
Building an a PWM source can be troublesome so I use the arduino project to feed the buck circuit to avoid many problems. Fact is the play area of the arduino website has published a project for a buck supply with a circuit we will use.
Other tools we will use include TopSpice just download the free version.
Next we will use the text file found in the tutorial on the ecircuit  website files named basic buck. Much more can be gleened there but that can get you started.
Using a p channel fet driven by a npn small signal transistor with the PWM signal, and following the project published on the arduino site, you can have any size dc to dc supply you care to build.
Use the ecircuit site to learn why it works.  See the results in action using the spice file supplied in the file from ecircuit in the downloaded TopSpice program.
You will find much on voltage dividers and a voltage divider calculator online. Build a divider and test it before you connect it to the arduino board. This input is feed to an analog pin on the board. It is used to read the output of the circuit so the program can adjust the output via the PWM duty cycle.
The output voltage can be 1/4 of the supply voltage. This means that a 48 volt supply can provide 12volts.
Have fun,
Kevin



--
All the best,
Dave Steere
dcsteere@dcsteere.com
850-234-2540  office
850-319-6010  cell phone





--
All the best,
Dave Steere
dcsteere@dcsteere.com
850-234-2540  office
850-319-6010  cell phone

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Re: [Electric Boats] Propane generators

 


First off, propane, carried on deck as one should carry portable gasoline,  is no more likely to explode than gasoline and probably much less likely. 

Second, if, like most, you cook with propane why carry two potentially dangerous fuels onboard.  

eric SV Meander



---In electricboats@yahoogroups.com, <jeff@...> wrote :

Not to mention propane is much more likely to explode :)

On 3/31/2014 11:45 AM, Kevin Pemberton wrote:
> Why go with propane? Propane has only 80%of the power of gasoline. No
> matter what port you go into you will likely find gas, but will have to
> travel to get propane.
>
> Another bottle carried aboard for longer trips will cost much more to
> purchase for propane. A gas can can likely be borrowed.
>
> Kevin
> On Mar 30, 2014 11:06 AM, <bradley.a.bates@...> wrote:
>
>>
>> Has anyone used or considered using something like these onboard?
>>
>>
>> http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=sr_nr_p_n_feature_keywords_5?rh=n%3A2972638011%2Cn%3A%213238155011%2Cn%3A552808%2Cn%3A348967011%2Cp_n_power_source_browse-bin%3A4619671011%2Cp_n_feature_four_browse-bin%3A3619898011%2Cp_n_feature_keywords_browse-bin%3A4827497011&bbn=348967011&ie=UTF8&qid=1396198124&rnid=4827495011
>>
>> I currently have a small portable gasoline generator that I am planning to
>> wire into my home circuits with a cut-over switch system. These small
>> units produce enough power to run several appliances and could easily run a
>> battery charging system. When removed from the frames they should not
>> require much room and are not very heavy. Since we plan to use propane on
>> board for cooking and possibly refrigeration, these seem to be a logical
>> accessory.
>>
>> Any thoughts out there on this subject?
>>
>> Brad Bates
>> Play Mate
>>
>>

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Re: [Electric Boats] Propane generators

 


Not to mention propane is much more likely to explode :)

On 3/31/2014 11:45 AM, Kevin Pemberton wrote:
> Why go with propane? Propane has only 80%of the power of gasoline. No
> matter what port you go into you will likely find gas, but will have to
> travel to get propane.
>
> Another bottle carried aboard for longer trips will cost much more to
> purchase for propane. A gas can can likely be borrowed.
>
> Kevin
> On Mar 30, 2014 11:06 AM, <bradley.a.bates@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>>
>> Has anyone used or considered using something like these onboard?
>>
>>
>> http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=sr_nr_p_n_feature_keywords_5?rh=n%3A2972638011%2Cn%3A%213238155011%2Cn%3A552808%2Cn%3A348967011%2Cp_n_power_source_browse-bin%3A4619671011%2Cp_n_feature_four_browse-bin%3A3619898011%2Cp_n_feature_keywords_browse-bin%3A4827497011&bbn=348967011&ie=UTF8&qid=1396198124&rnid=4827495011
>>
>> I currently have a small portable gasoline generator that I am planning to
>> wire into my home circuits with a cut-over switch system. These small
>> units produce enough power to run several appliances and could easily run a
>> battery charging system. When removed from the frames they should not
>> require much room and are not very heavy. Since we plan to use propane on
>> board for cooking and possibly refrigeration, these seem to be a logical
>> accessory.
>>
>> Any thoughts out there on this subject?
>>
>> Brad Bates
>> Play Mate
>>
>>

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Re: [Electric Boats] Propane generators

 

Why go with propane? Propane has only 80%of the power of gasoline. No matter what port you go into you will likely find gas, but will have to travel to get propane.

Another bottle carried aboard for longer trips will cost much more to purchase for propane. A gas can can likely be borrowed.

Kevin

On Mar 30, 2014 11:06 AM, <bradley.a.bates@gmail.com> wrote:
 

Has anyone used or considered using something like these onboard?



I currently have a small portable gasoline generator that I am planning to wire into my home circuits with a cut-over switch system.  These small units produce enough power to run several appliances and could easily run a battery charging system.  When removed from the frames they should not require much room and are not very heavy.  Since we plan to use propane on board for cooking and possibly refrigeration, these seem to be a logical accessory.

Any thoughts out there on this subject?

Brad Bates
Play Mate

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Re: [Electric Boats] Voltage converters you can make

 

OK, I will do my best. Much of my downloaded info was lost with a computer crash. I have much of the info backed up but where I got it is questionable. Start with jaycar's pdf called dcdcconv.pdf for a primer.

Microchip has a document called buck converter design example.  If you want to calculate outputs this download will help you.

International rectifier has circuits like the ir2117 that likely have design data sheets with more on dc to dc converters. If not look online on their site. Someplace there I found information on converters, because I have some of that in my info.

Arduino has a project listing for a power supply using dc to dc converter that I used to build my first circuit of a dc to dc converter. My circuit was used to charge batteries at a rate of 50amps. The design was a three stage charger. That design was unfortunately lost in the crash.

Much of the information I have has a copyright on it so I can't just post it.

Problem as I stated earlier, I am having trouble finding all my files. Because I need to build another project, I will be re-locating much of the old sources, but this may take a while if still published online. I am thinking a Cuk converter the next time around for the low ripple.

For the record. Computers have taken a lot of the calculation out of making one of these. I am using AI fuzzy logic when I program the controller. I start with a smaller PWM number than required and check the output voltage with the voltage divider then increase the pwm number till the desired voltage is reached. This takes a little time to stablize but never has overvoltaged on me.

My variable voltage power supply is set to the desired voltage and I program the arduino to send the reading to my computer via usb. This number I then program as a constant to compare to my reading from the divider.
If you wonder how to use the PWM output, it is the analog output of the arduino/wiring programming language for the arduino IDE. Note that the freq. Is much lower as programmed with the analog out command than is normal for dc to dc converters. You can change this with avrcpp with a few instructions in C by changing the counter/divider timer values. Or just use larger components. I have done both and find the larger components the easer method for a one off project. This is also why my next project will be of the Cuk design. I need the ripple free output for that project.  You also have got the benefit of my past posts. My new 12v system will be a bank of capacitors rather than a battery. The thought of wasting power to charge a battery when the power to do it is comming from a off grid battery bank and sources makes no sense.

Oh! Almost forgot, spice is a development started with the development of the IC, at Berkeley University in California, then released to opensource. It is used as a lab to test circuits without having to build a prototype. I use the opensource version. Topspice is a windows version of spice that has a trial version that can be used for personal use. The website referenced at the start of this thread has a link to download it. As well as a script to run in it to see how the dc to dc circuit will respond to different components you may already have in your junk drawer.

Tutorials for arduino system show how to configure components and drive transistors. Driving any kind of load from a micro processor pin will only serve to distroy the processor. Read the tutorials online before you get started. Driving high voltage (over 5volts) loads without opto-couplers is a bad practice. This includes my voltage divider. To protect the processor the high side resistor is 1/8w and the low side resistor is1/2 w when I build one. My idea is should a resistor burn out it will likely be the lower watt one. This in turn will keep the pin from ever getting the full high side voltage. It will instead go to ground. This to has a bad side effect. The output  will peg unless you program a failsafe. For me this is done by turning off the PWM pin should the voltage go to 0 after checking for an input voltage.

Kevin

P.S.  as I recall ecircuits an online site has a study course on dc to dc converters. Yes I think that is one of my references. I seldom follow a course to the end, I just get what I need. My guess is they have a ICR channel for discussion where you can get the answers you need real time. If not I bet you can find an IRC easily enough. Of course if you don't mind waiting on my responses keep this topic here, but remember I am not a teacher or engineer, just a hobbiest.

 

Kevin,

I would also like to add my appreciation for the hints you provided!

Is this the Arduino project reference you were looking at?  >>   https://sites.google.com/site/wayneholder/12-volt-charge-pump

That project looks very interesting to start with and begin tinkering.  I saw an article on wikipedia about boost circuits and pumps.  The described the basic circuit, but didn't show how easy it was to implement with a controller, and I don't recall seeing the diode configuration shown in the Arduino project.  In my previous google searches for tutorials and circuits, the references you (Kevin) suggested didn't pop up.  Thank you!

Wayne's project is unfortunately limited by using the controller pins to directly charge the capacitors.  So I can see that he can get from 5V to 12 or even 18V at no load, or very little load.  I'm guessing that I could add switches (transistors) between the controller and the capacitors to get it to boost the current capacity a bit.  One question I would have on that would be whether only (+) needed to be switched, or if (gnd) would also have to be switched (2x transistors per connection).   I haven't had a chance to play with it yet....

But I'm also guessing that there's a limit to how far this can be pushed.  I'm skeptical that this can be practically scaled up to the 10-15A range.

And, as you mentioned in other emails - there's definitely a limit to how much power you can suck out of one battery to produce the desired voltage.

I haven't had a chance to tinker with voltage pumps yet.  They look cool, and would certainly solve some problems.  But it would be no surprise to run into practical limits....

John


From: Dave Steere <dcsteere@dcsteere.com>
To: electricboats@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, March 20, 2014 10:42 AM
Subject: Re: [Electric Boats] Voltage converters you can make

 
Kevin, I'm fascinated by this subject but it would be very helpful if you could share a little more of what you've found in your own research.  For example, I don't know what Top Spice is, or where to find it.  Also the particular on line sources for other information about high current PWM DC:DC converters using Arduino would be super helpful.  If you have actually gotten far enough into this to design a particular DC:DC converter using the approach, would you be willing to share the schematic and maybe a few design notes that would be helpful to others of us interested in doing a similar project?  I have tinkered with analog approaches but for one reason or another, most of my attempts have shown one or more design flaws and I can't really claim to have been totally successful, esp when trying to draw 10-15 Amps of current.




On Wed, Mar 19, 2014 at 2:42 PM, Kevin Pemberton <pembertonkevin@gmail.com> wrote:
 
Because many of you have wanted to know more about dc to dc power supplys I have looked up some things that helped me learn more about them.
Most engineers use black box devices to put a system together rather than build from scratch. We will not build from scratch but will open the case on the blackbox.
Building an a PWM source can be troublesome so I use the arduino project to feed the buck circuit to avoid many problems. Fact is the play area of the arduino website has published a project for a buck supply with a circuit we will use.
Other tools we will use include TopSpice just download the free version.
Next we will use the text file found in the tutorial on the ecircuit  website files named basic buck. Much more can be gleened there but that can get you started.
Using a p channel fet driven by a npn small signal transistor with the PWM signal, and following the project published on the arduino site, you can have any size dc to dc supply you care to build.
Use the ecircuit site to learn why it works.  See the results in action using the spice file supplied in the file from ecircuit in the downloaded TopSpice program.
You will find much on voltage dividers and a voltage divider calculator online. Build a divider and test it before you connect it to the arduino board. This input is feed to an analog pin on the board. It is used to read the output of the circuit so the program can adjust the output via the PWM duty cycle.
The output voltage can be 1/4 of the supply voltage. This means that a 48 volt supply can provide 12volts.
Have fun,
Kevin



--
All the best,
Dave Steere
dcsteere@dcsteere.com
850-234-2540  office
850-319-6010  cell phone


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Re: [Electric Boats] 5KW or 10 KW

 

Hi Chris,
Interesting numbers for a bigger boat. I note you invite the group to comment. Jame's knows his ME0913 motors better than anyone I think, so I won't attempt to steal his thunder.

What I would like to comment on is: " In your opinion, is my ratio correct? 12KW from a "20 KW" system,"

I won't comment on the gearing/prop as such even though of course there is a relationship to power. It is more the "20kW" system. I think this is where a lot of folk get confused. i.e. continuous/rated/peak ratings. I know I did, but now after 3 years of research/build and my first 600 miles under my belt with electric, I feel qualified to comment.

You system is a nominal 48v @ 50 RPM/Volt (no load speed constant I assume?) so if a low voltage is at the motor and the motor is on tickover the load is light but then at 48 x 50=2,400 RPM it does not account for load. If at that voltage you pull your rated current of 125 Amps, then 48 x 125 = 6kW/shaft nominal and as the voltage/speed constant rating can only be held within a certain range subject to the combination of speed and load, rated power may be less. V=IR and V x I= Power shows us this.

Out of interest how did you arrive at your RPM figures? Were they derived or measured with a shaft tacho and if so did you correlate/chart that with measured controller voltages and current, battery and motor  readings with temperatures too?

The 20 kW is an intermittent rating as I'm sure you know based on peak controller/motor ratings for a given voltage and current. We can make power with loads of volts and little current or the other way round as I'm sure you know. For me a good way to see where you are in terms of peak with your particular system/gearing is to do a kind of bollard pull test. I tied my boat up securely and slowly raised the throttle and at close to full throttle (my prop wasn't optimised then and it was starting to cavitate) I noted the current draw which naturally was above my continuous rating. It was about 30% greater, so for me this simulates the kind of real world current I could experience if I chose to accelerate my boat hard(ish) or push up the face of a wave if you like. A bit like going up a hill in an electric car.

For me gearing a motor and matching the prop is all about where I want the peak efficiency of my motor to run. In my case I'm looking to run at 90% efficiency at normal cruise speed (that is where the most time is spent) and sacrifice max continous top speed and efficiency. As long as I have a sufficient reserve I'm happy. So my approach is to maximise range at cruise rather than worry about peak/continuous powers. In that sense only you can decide what prop and what gearing you want, to achieve your desired/stated goals.

A bit like you can't have your cake and eat it, I guess. I welcome comments.

John

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Sunday, March 30, 2014

[Electric Boats] Re: Propane generators

 

Onan/Cummings makes propane generators for RVs. Something like that might be plausible:

http://power.cummins.com/onanpowerWeb/navigation.do?pageId=654

Paul

Sent from my iPad

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[Electric Boats] Re: Propane generators

 


Too noisy for my taste but it is possible to get ones like the Honda inverter generators converted to propane though not as high output.
eric SV Meander

---In electricboats@yahoogroups.com, <bradley.a.bates@...> wrote :

Has anyone used or considered using something like these onboard?


I currently have a small portable gasoline generator that I am planning to wire into my home circuits with a cut-over switch system.  These small units produce enough power to run several appliances and could easily run a battery charging system.  When removed from the frames they should not require much room and are not very heavy.  Since we plan to use propane on board for cooking and possibly refrigeration, these seem to be a logical accessory.

Any thoughts out there on this subject?

Brad Bates
Play Mate

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Re: [Electric Boats] Propane generators

 

Brad,
I would compare the fuel consumption compared to a gas generator. I think you'll find propane to be more expensive to operate.
 
Bob
On Sunday, March 30, 2014 1:06 PM, "bradley.a.bates@gmail.com" <bradley.a.bates@gmail.com> wrote:
 
Has anyone used or considered using something like these onboard?


I currently have a small portable gasoline generator that I am planning to wire into my home circuits with a cut-over switch system.  These small units produce enough power to run several appliances and could easily run a battery charging system.  When removed from the frames they should not require much room and are not very heavy.  Since we plan to use propane on board for cooking and possibly refrigeration, these seem to be a logical accessory.

Any thoughts out there on this subject?

Brad Bates
Play Mate


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